I watched the YouTube videos on them. They look pretty good. I think if you contact him, he will get a set out to you. I'd love to hear feedback on the kit. A clutch kit seems like a must do mod for the KRX along with a flash.

 

I watched his video the other day. Are any of you fellas with some miles experiencing the what his kit is suppose to fix?

 

I just ordered a set. I have noticed a tendency in the CVT to "shift" around a bit lately. I have about 1400 miles on it.

 

Yea I'm hooked.... I want a set of these for sure. wish he had worked out a new set of springs set for both also .. clutch springs sag out quite a bit after a 100hrs or so... may have to call dalton on the springs.. how much $coin on these?

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They're here! Very quick, I just ordered a few days ago.

 

I was just watching a video on these yesterday. make sure to update us on your thoughts after the install.

 

Good video on the install and performance -

 

Interesting that with stock 31" tires that measure 30" he's running no weights (no set screws) to achieve the fastest time. Then if you are running 35" tires you are told to run no weights (no set screws). Can anyone share their experiences with installing the included set screws for weight adjustments?

 

I bought my kit from Deranged off road easy job, And i couldnt believe my oem weights were worn so much I couldnt believe it and mine has over 2,300 miles and it was shifting like a manual.

 

Weights shouldn’t wear so Im not quite following. How many miles? Pic?

Are guys here blowing out their clutches? All that dust that collects in the clutches will wear thingd out in a hurry

 

I blow out my clutches and service my krx and rs1 every 500 miles and yes it gets dusty in there big time also remove the drive belt to check it out and to measure it to see if any wear then i wipe and clean both pulleys with alcohol. I wished my I could send my photos of my factory weights with 2,300 miles on them, I am having problems downloading all pictures on this computer. If anyone wants to see them I can text them too you. The material used to make the weights looks real soft. At 1000 miles of use on the right coast ones I just installed I will pull them to see how much if any wearing is being done to them.

 

Anyone in the market for clutching should contact JBS, they're the best.

 

We have weights available now on our website, ready to ship. If anyone needs anything please let us know.

Www.rightcoastoffroad.com

 

Developing a groove down low (if u idle a lot) is common but up high is not normal and will affect shifting

 

I did not have any groves in my clutch/sheave, And mine shifted real bad n you can even see the rpms drop when it shifted. When I replaced the clutch weights mine is sooooo smooth n no shifting what so ever. Just saying

 

Due to the fact that these machines have a wet clutch the belt never goes loose at idle, so that shouldn't be an issue.

 

My machine has had the "shifting" issue for a while now. Dealer is ordering the parts to fix it. Backordered but will be warranty. Was gonna buy the weight kit but I have warranty so wanted to use it. I'll add the weight kit in the near future.

 

I had the dealer take a look at the CVT when I had it in for the a-arm and knuckle upgrade. They told me the grooving I have is normal. I don't agree. After only 1500 miles I don't believe there should be any noticeable grooving.....pics below. And they said the tech took it for a ride and didn't notice any notchy shifting, it was working normally ....also b.s. The notchy feeling was very apparent. I then asked if the tech had pulled the weights out to see it they were worn, a known problem. He hadn't .....why the hell wouldn't a tech inspect everything when a customer complains about this??? 🙄
Anyway I didn't feel like arguing the point with them so I'll be taking it up with Kawasaki directly. We and they know the early models had issues with premature wear on the primary sheaves and weights.
Anyway I installed the East Coast weights today. the OEM weights were very worn and notchy. Photo below. It's no wonder the thing wasn't shifting properly. Took it around the neighborhood and dint notice any shifting issue at all. Go figure!
I'll be going out for an off-road ride tomorrow, anxious to see how the performance has changed.

 

Nice! Let us know what you think after getting some time on the new weights. Are the 35's on there yet?

 

No not yet. I thought about mounting them today, but decided I needed to contact Right coast to see what weight changes I need to make first.

 

The wife and I just got home from a 40 mile ride. All kinds of terrain, from major slow rock crawling, to fast-ish jeep roads, and some very steep loose and rocky climbs with rock ledges mixed in, and all kinds of washes everywhere just for fun. I must say I'm impressed with the Right Coast weights. They offer a very progressive clutch curve, and the jump just off of idle is much improved over stock. The notchy shifting I was having is completely gone too. Undoubtedly some of the best money I've spent on this machine to date.

 

Bill, what did you install for weights?

 

Nice Bill! Thanks for the feedback!

 

Got a (?) Have VFJ tune and MBRP slip-on Running 35's

Here is my question, can I run Right Coast clutch weights and remove my primary clutch spring? Are there any cons in doing this?

 

You can, but removing the primary spring is not good for performance or belt life. The primary spring is there to control backshift and without it your machine will always be in a "taller gear" than it needs to be. This will increase wear on the belt and really hurt your performance.

 

Exactly.. don’t remove the spring

 

This chart will help. The weights for the RCOR clutch are in the box. The hand written number on the box is the clutch weight in grams. Weight depends on tune, elevation, and tire size. These are the starting point guidelines. Individual machines may need a little more weight or a little less weight.

 

THANK YOU!

 

Yes, thanks Craig!