I'm waiting on some more input from owners on the all things tenders vs. RCOR, verses ST. Considering the big thing that a KRX has going for it is suspension, presently, I'm leaning to ST for the extra cost. The ST matched tender/primary springs would to seem to have a better overall effectiveness potential for improvement. I'm at just under 500 miles last time I checked and have perhaps 3/4"-7/8" sag front/rear average but the transfers are definitely knocking more.

 

Give me two weeks and I will have put a couple hundred miles on my RCOR tender springs. Should have a pretty good feel for them after that, and will be able to accurately check the initial sag. Expecting 1/2" and there shouldn't be anymore after that.
I understand the ST full matched set concept, but I don't know if one would be able to tell the difference with just spring replacement. If you were going for the complete re-valve+spring treatment I'm sure there would be a seat of the pants difference. Just doing springs, I don't believe there will be much difference other than the big $$$ difference.

 

understand the ST full matched set concept, but I don't know if one would be able to tell the difference with just spring replacement. If you were going for the complete re-valve+spring treatment I'm sure there would be a seat of the pants difference. Just doing springs, I don't believe there will be much difference other than the big $$$ difference.

Thanks for the input Bob, The honest truth is I am so overwhelmed by the KRX suspension performance compared to my other UTV I've lost perspective. The more I drive it the more it impresses me. I'm waiting on your feedback as a key deciding factor. The extra $$$ for the ST is definitely better spent elsewhere.....if it isn't a large factor, that's for sure. The other side of the equation is I want to do this right the first time even if it is more costly.....that's where the ST option sits on the attractive/value spectrum for me.

 

I have been running AllThingzUTV tenders for about 400 hard miles now. Very happy with them, no more sag.

Like BobX2 said, not sure how different with the ST spring setup would be without doing the re-valve.

Remove your front sway bar and it will ride like butter.

 

I can't say about the tender springs only. I bought the ST spring kit (around $850) I no longer have sagging issues. To me I always had a good ride with factory springs.Now, if I hit a "surprise" big hole it just glides right over it. I would do it again because it's all about the ride.

 

I have Bandit Stage 3 complete set and set to their spec....saged in to 15" rear and 13" front. 24 clicks out all around 10.5 psi all around and Joey Chitwood would have loved it. Set it to your riding style, play around with ride height, tire pressure,
Shock pressures and find what is right for you. Rock guys want different than speed guys. If you want more forgiveness going sideways, lower the car. Agree with below statement. I would probably try the tender springs first, if you don't like then sell and buy in bigger.

Since we all will eventually be replacing our springs, these seem to currently be the top two choices. If there are others, feel free to mention them here too.

For the first time, I have read some bad reviews about the ST spring setup they are offering, and poor customer service from ST as well. This comes as a bit of a surprise since I had basically heard nothing but good about them in the past.
I have also been reading good reviews about Bandit springs, other than they are always out of stock. That has always been an issue with them, and can't be blamed on the pandemic BS.

Shock Therapy supposedly uses spring weights customized for you based on information you provide them.
Bandit offers two "generic" spring packages, "Medium" and "Heavy".

This is where things get tricky, as springs are expensive and a PITA to swap out. I'm sure all the choices are better than the OEM springs that all sag out, but which ones are the best fit for your machine?

Is a "medium" weight spring going to adequately support your machine for those times when you load it up, or carry a spare tire?
Is a "heavy" spring going to provide to harsh of a ride for your typical average machine weight that you occasionally add an additional 75 lbs. in it?

I recently read where two friends ordered from ST. They both provided completely different needs and weights to ST, yet both received identical spring weights. They also commented that the springs were rubbing on the shock bodies.

Post up any reviews here, good or bad, about your aftermarket springs. Also include how your KRX is set up. Mainly, have you added much weight to it? Big cargo box, spare tire, glass windshield, etc. Not looking to create arguments over who thinks they have the best springs, just looking for good, honest information that everyone can use.

I will leave this post in the General Discussion forum for a while, but it will eventually get moved to the Suspension and Body forum.

I went with the bandit stage 3 and I love them. The springs are a lot stiffer than oem with that being said I run my compression settings at full soft for the slow trail speed and it makes for a nice ride, I have noticed with the stiffer spring the ride only gets better the faster you go. And I have also installed shock therapy Springs on my uncle’s KRX and I will tell you the bandits are a much easier install then ST, the bandits are the same exactly length as the oem springs , ST springs are much longer. We had to crank the pre load down a lot more on the ST springs to sit the same height as my bandits. They are both great springs. Hope this helps.

 

So depending on what you want to spend their are a lot of options. For me I went with the rcof tender springs the big reason was I did not see a point in spending the money for The ST kit without sending the shocks out for tuning also. I’m sure that if you do the whole kit it will ride really good. how much better then stock vs tender springs vs full springs and lastly full suspension set up made for you and your riding style. That is the big question. I do know with how mine is set up I really like it. The 35bfgs do not like low pressure at all in the rocks I pinched 2 sidewalls when they were set at 13psi. The ground clearance is awesome though at 18”. The ride feels stiffer and more planted the shocks are 7 front and 10 rear. Last weekend we were up in the trails here that are full of riprap and I was going over it at 25/35 keeping up with the stock machine in front. Spots where he would bounce or hit the skid I felt nothing. I figured I would do the whole system in winter if the tenders don’t work out but so far I’m really impressed.

 

Wow 13 psi did not seem low to me,especially w such a tall sidewall,hopefully u didn’t hurt ur new tires.I appreciate all the information.let’s us know what u feel is the appropriate air psi.thanks in advance

 

 

I have the ST dual rate springs without any shock work. The difference in how well the KRX soaks up whatever you send it across is ridiculous over stock springs. Even when it was brand new it never took the bumps like it does now. The ST springs take up a lot more of the length of the shock than stock ones did. IDK how that effects things. I don't have any input on running just tenders, but the ST seems worth every penny to me.

 

I would say in the sharp rocks I will run 18-20. In slow rock crawling I think 12-15 would be perfect. I’m starting to see that I drive my peterbilt so careful during the week. That on the weekends I just wreck shop on my toys. Plus if I crash my krx I can still pay my mortgage not the same in the trucks. So I’ll drive safe on the road and unload that stress on the trail testing the limits of this unit.

 

LOL Hammer you must really like buying those 300 dollar tires not to mention what its probably doing to that sweet machine.

 

Can someone please explain what "riprap" is?

 

Small/medium sharp stones and gravel. We have quite a bit of that here in AZ. It can do a number on tires if you don’t go easy.

 

I have the ST kit, and it’s night and day different from stock. The suspension just soaks up the rough terrain with very minimal cab movement. If you’re looking to just fix the sag, I’d get tender springs. But if you’re looking for improved ride quality, do a full blown kit.

 

I agree with Big Parm ,I have the full ST springs and love them . I had a lot of sag with the stock springs , due to a lot of added weight . The ST Rides a little stiffer than stock but no sag . I’m having the shocks done at ST next month , so will see what that does . Right now I and my Wife both agree it was money well spent .

 

In my industry, in Colorado, riprap is shot rock (typically 6" to 24") that is used to armor around bridge abutments and piers to protect against scour from running water, as well as to armor river banks, ditch banks and anywhere else there may be running water, to protect from erosion. It is typically sharp and jagged since it is blasted from granite.
In Texas, riprap is concrete slope and ditch paving. Totally different down there....

 

In my industry, in Colorado, riprap is shot rock (typically 6" to 24") that is used to armor around bridge abutments and piers to protect against scour from running water, as well as to armor river banks, ditch banks and anywhere else there may be running water, to protect from erosion. It is typically sharp and jagged since it is blasted from granite.
In Texas, riprap is concrete slope and ditch paving. Totally different down there....

View attachment 4214

My Dad will flip his lid if I run down a limestone #2 (size of your thumb/broken by crusher) road, edges/points can be like arrowheads. After it is run in it breaks the edges and is less a problem. I run 10 ply tires on the Sequoia.

 

Low tire pressure is what caused the sidewall to kiss the lock ring on this trip. The big thing with the psi is true rock crawling I’ll run 10-12 so the tire forms on the rocks. I like jumping also so 10-12psi with the rocks in areas bend the rims. For me higher psi means I can do more my style of riding on these trails. The suspension really works good when you push it. We don’t always go balls out on everything but sometimes you just got to open her up to see what she can do or test the limits. If things break they break. Then I can report back on what not to do lol. The tires are a great combo with the springs so far but I really want to see how a full ST kit would be.

 

LOL. Been there, done that...

 

Go with the SHOCK THERAPY springs !!!! I cannot say enough good things about them. The ride is 100% better and the ground clearance is where it needs to be. Like others have said above it soaks up the biggest dips and holes with no problems. I ride mostly wooded trails in PA and WV and the ST springs work great. Installation was easy, as I purchased the compressor stand from eBay, used a bar clamp to keep the lower clamp closed, as the reservoir causes clearance issues on the compressor. I also purchased the silencer rings from eBay, they are simply laser cut rubber o-rings that cushion the contact when the primary spring compresses......no more annoying banging noise when hitting bumps !!!! GO with ST !!

Silencers - Kawasaki KRX 1000 CROSSOVER SILENCER'S | eBay

 

The membership input on this subject is Great!....and much appreciated. The feeling I'm getting from reading these posts is that the ST owners are pretty enthusiastic and specific about the performance enhancements over stock configuration, while the tender folks are more or less reporting some performance increase but more of a re-leveling application.

 

So this guy is from my neck of the woods and he did a full video and review. See below.

 

I went with bandit springs - I think they are the best spring setup for the krx out there - if needed i can tell you what i dont like about the ST springs - plus if your dead set on ST wait until they release their beehive spring - what they offer now is a shorter spring with parts to make them fit the krx - it isnt a spring designed for the krx - just out of a box. If you go tender spring only - I would go with RCOR - the "allthingzutv" spring is too long and can create cupping issue some have already reported.

 

Just got off the phone with ST about the springs. I was assured today from ST that all spring kits going out today were the new updated ones. "Beehive" Guess I will see.

 

I had the same issue in that shortly after adding multiple accessories my clearance was reduced to barely 10". I went with Shock Therapy's full spring replacement and love it. The good thing about doing full replacement is when ordering you are asked about driving conditions to include accessories you have added, weight of driver and passenger. The ride is awesome and I'm at slightly over 15" in the rear, I don't remember what I set the front at.

 

I would like to know where you are getting your information. The ST springs don't come with "parts" to make them fit the KRX. As someone who actually has the ST springs, I don't think you know what you are talking about.

 

I would like to know where you are getting your information. The ST springs don't come with "parts" to make them fit the KRX. As someone who actually has the ST springs, I don't think you know what you are talking about.

I was gonna go there, but didnt wanna get into a huge argument with him. Either way, we can all agree that the stock KRX springs SUCK !!!! Its awful that we even gotta buy new springs for a machine that cost us all anywhere between 15 and 25 grand !!!

 

Just letting people know what my settings are on my shock therapy springs. I have a trail edition with front and back windshield (plastic). Spare tire, roof 6 speaker sound system plus cooler and tools. So my machine is heavy. But had to go extra 1/2” in front to 4” and extra inch in rear 9 1/2. I’m at 14.5 to 15”. I’m hoping they don’t settle more than 1/2 inch. I should have listened to the one guy about buying spring Compressor because the front has to be compressed to get on shock. I have the cheap compressor that you have to use a ratchet on each side of springs to compress. Junk but worked. The rear you can just do it the way rcor does it. Took it for a little ride seems nice. I’ll give a review after 250 miles.


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Get on ebay and find the upper springs $246 dollers they are very well built and they have a lifetime warranty on them......but you will find them on ebay

 

My Trail Edition, with less than 400 miles, is already showing spring sag. I'm sure the spare tire and other accessories have not helped the situation. My question is, what are the pros and cons of Tender Springs vs. a full Shock Therapy replacement? I understand the tender springs are less than half the price so why would I go with the full spring replacement?

My trail was 12” front and 11 1/2 in the back at 120 miles. Adjusted them and was right back to that in one ride. The ST seemed smooth so far but I need to go on a long ride to try them out. Going to HM in august. Then I’ll know if it was worth the money


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I have ST spring and re-valve and love it. I have a heavy machine, spare tire, tools, cooler, etc.. I was down to 12” in the rear at 300 miles, ST is holding strong with 17” at 1800 miles no sag. A little spendy yes, but I don’t regret my decision. I’m also running 35” XCR 350’s. I’ve got 3 friends with stock suspension still and they love the way mine rides and how much quieter it is.

 

What’d you pay for the shock therapy work?

 

I have had my ST springs for about 300 miles now and love them. The ride is amazing and as mentioned above they are warrantied for life. The instructions mention that they could sag slightly after the first few 100 miles but then readjust and they shouldn't any further. I will probably adjust mine slightly but for the most part they are holding up great. I've rode on some pretty rough trails since I got them and the difference is noticeable. Just my two cents.

 

I will probably upgrade to the es model in the future, if you really want to spend more money this is where to start. The guy from right coast reviewed bandit, tenders etc, and said your just spending money. You are throwing money at an obsolete shock technology when upgrading dumb suspension systems. 30 years ago, when working I got to see a Mellon family members private car collection (warehouse size) and saw a 1980s Ferrari equipped live/active suspension. There was a desktop tower bolted to the floor where the passenger seat was removed. These guys were upgrading their sports cars back then. Any of these after market solutions work well. Manufacturers have to pass the roll over test....sprung soft. Always comes down to cost/benefit you'll never compete with the more advanced technology from the manufacturer....Justin said that.

 

LOL if these shocks are so smart then why are the fastest trophy trucks in the desert not running that technology I personally will stick with old school springs and valving. I just came from a 300 mile trip in Baja and there was a new Polaris live valve turbo there and we were on some of the roughest part of the 500 course and I could run way faster thru those sections and the ST springs did make a huge difference.

 

Question.

Will the springs in a live valve machine sag and have to be replaced, or does the live valve allow proper springs to be installed and meet the DOT requirements that supposedly are the reason stock tenders suck?