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My Trail Edition, with less than 400 miles, is already showing spring sag. I'm sure the spare tire and other accessories have not helped the situation. My question is, what are the pros and cons of Tender Springs vs. a full Shock Therapy replacement? I understand the tender springs are less than half the price so why would I go with the full spring replacement?
 

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I'm waiting on some more input from owners on the all things tenders vs. RCOR, verses ST. Considering the big thing that a KRX has going for it is suspension, presently, I'm leaning to ST for the extra cost. The ST matched tender/primary springs would to seem to have a better overall effectiveness potential for improvement. I'm at just under 500 miles last time I checked and have perhaps 3/4"-7/8" sag front/rear average but the transfers are definitely knocking more.
 

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Give me two weeks and I will have put a couple hundred miles on my RCOR tender springs. Should have a pretty good feel for them after that, and will be able to accurately check the initial sag. Expecting 1/2" and there shouldn't be anymore after that.
I understand the ST full matched set concept, but I don't know if one would be able to tell the difference with just spring replacement. If you were going for the complete re-valve+spring treatment I'm sure there would be a seat of the pants difference. Just doing springs, I don't believe there will be much difference other than the big $$$ difference.
 

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I have been running AllThingzUTV tenders for about 400 hard miles now. Very happy with them, no more sag.

Like BobX2 said, not sure how different with the ST spring setup would be without doing the re-valve.

Remove your front sway bar and it will ride like butter.
 
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understand the ST full matched set concept, but I don't know if one would be able to tell the difference with just spring replacement. If you were going for the complete re-valve+spring treatment I'm sure there would be a seat of the pants difference. Just doing springs, I don't believe there will be much difference other than the big $$$ difference.
Thanks for the input Bob, The honest truth is I am so overwhelmed by the KRX suspension performance compared to my other UTV I've lost perspective. The more I drive it the more it impresses me. I'm waiting on your feedback as a key deciding factor. The extra $$$ for the ST is definitely better spent elsewhere.....if it isn't a large factor, that's for sure. The other side of the equation is I want to do this right the first time even if it is more costly.....that's where the ST option sits on the attractive/value spectrum for me.
 

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My Trail Edition, with less than 400 miles, is already showing spring sag. I'm sure the spare tire and other accessories have not helped the situation. My question is, what are the pros and cons of Tender Springs vs. a full Shock Therapy replacement? I understand the tender springs are less than half the price so why would I go with the full spring replacement?
I can't say about the tender springs only. I bought the ST spring kit (around $850) I no longer have sagging issues. To me I always had a good ride with factory springs.Now, if I hit a "surprise" big hole it just glides right over it. I would do it again because it's all about the ride.
 

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I have Bandit Stage 3 complete set and set to their spec....saged in to 15" rear and 13" front. 24 clicks out all around 10.5 psi all around and Joey Chitwood would have loved it. Set it to your riding style, play around with ride height, tire pressure,
Shock pressures and find what is right for you. Rock guys want different than speed guys. If you want more forgiveness going sideways, lower the car. Agree with below statement. I would probably try the tender springs first, if you don't like then sell and buy in bigger.
Since we all will eventually be replacing our springs, these seem to currently be the top two choices. If there are others, feel free to mention them here too.

For the first time, I have read some bad reviews about the ST spring setup they are offering, and poor customer service from ST as well. This comes as a bit of a surprise since I had basically heard nothing but good about them in the past.
I have also been reading good reviews about Bandit springs, other than they are always out of stock. That has always been an issue with them, and can't be blamed on the pandemic BS.

Shock Therapy supposedly uses spring weights customized for you based on information you provide them.
Bandit offers two "generic" spring packages, "Medium" and "Heavy".

This is where things get tricky, as springs are expensive and a PITA to swap out. I'm sure all the choices are better than the OEM springs that all sag out, but which ones are the best fit for your machine?

Is a "medium" weight spring going to adequately support your machine for those times when you load it up, or carry a spare tire?
Is a "heavy" spring going to provide to harsh of a ride for your typical average machine weight that you occasionally add an additional 75 lbs. in it?

I recently read where two friends ordered from ST. They both provided completely different needs and weights to ST, yet both received identical spring weights. They also commented that the springs were rubbing on the shock bodies.

Post up any reviews here, good or bad, about your aftermarket springs. Also include how your KRX is set up. Mainly, have you added much weight to it? Big cargo box, spare tire, glass windshield, etc. Not looking to create arguments over who thinks they have the best springs, just looking for good, honest information that everyone can use.

I will leave this post in the General Discussion forum for a while, but it will eventually get moved to the Suspension and Body forum.
I went with the bandit stage 3 and I love them. The springs are a lot stiffer than oem with that being said I run my compression settings at full soft for the slow trail speed and it makes for a nice ride, I have noticed with the stiffer spring the ride only gets better the faster you go. And I have also installed shock therapy Springs on my uncle’s KRX and I will tell you the bandits are a much easier install then ST, the bandits are the same exactly length as the oem springs , ST springs are much longer. We had to crank the pre load down a lot more on the ST springs to sit the same height as my bandits. They are both great springs. Hope this helps.
 

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So depending on what you want to spend their are a lot of options. For me I went with the rcof tender springs the big reason was I did not see a point in spending the money for The ST kit without sending the shocks out for tuning also. I’m sure that if you do the whole kit it will ride really good. how much better then stock vs tender springs vs full springs and lastly full suspension set up made for you and your riding style. That is the big question. I do know with how mine is set up I really like it. The 35bfgs do not like low pressure at all in the rocks I pinched 2 sidewalls when they were set at 13psi. The ground clearance is awesome though at 18”. The ride feels stiffer and more planted the shocks are 7 front and 10 rear. Last weekend we were up in the trails here that are full of riprap and I was going over it at 25/35 keeping up with the stock machine in front. Spots where he would bounce or hit the skid I felt nothing. I figured I would do the whole system in winter if the tenders don’t work out but so far I’m really impressed.
 

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I have the ST dual rate springs without any shock work. The difference in how well the KRX soaks up whatever you send it across is ridiculous over stock springs. Even when it was brand new it never took the bumps like it does now. The ST springs take up a lot more of the length of the shock than stock ones did. IDK how that effects things. I don't have any input on running just tenders, but the ST seems worth every penny to me.
 

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So depending on what you want to spend their are a lot of options. For me I went with the rcof tender springs the big reason was I did not see a point in spending the money for The ST kit without sending the shocks out for tuning also. I’m sure that if you do the whole kit it will ride really good. how much better then stock vs tender springs vs full springs and lastly full suspension set up made for you and your riding style. That is the big question. I do know with how mine is set up I really like it. The 35bfgs do not like low pressure at all in the rocks I pinched 2 sidewalls when they were set at 13psi. The ground clearance is awesome though at 18”. The ride feels stiffer and more planted the shocks are 7 front and 10 rear. Last weekend we were up in the trails here that are full of riprap and I was going over it at 25/35 keeping up with the stock machine in front. Spots where he would bounce or hit the skid I felt nothing. I figured I would do the whole system in winter if the tenders don’t work out but so far I’m really impressed.
Wow 13 psi did not seem low to me,especially w such a tall sidewall,hopefully u didn’t hurt ur new tires.I appreciate all the information.let’s us know what u feel is the appropriate air psi.thanks in advance
 

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I would say in the sharp rocks I will run 18-20. In slow rock crawling I think 12-15 would be perfect. I’m starting to see that I drive my peterbilt so careful during the week. That on the weekends I just wreck shop on my toys. Plus if I crash my krx I can still pay my mortgage not the same in the trucks. So I’ll drive safe on the road and unload that stress on the trail testing the limits of this unit.
 

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The 35bfgs do not like low pressure at all in the rocks I pinched 2 sidewalls when they were set at 13psi. The ground clearance is awesome though at 18”. The ride feels stiffer and more planted the shocks are 7 front and 10 rear. Last weekend we were up in the trails here that are full of riprap and I was going over it at 25/35 keeping up with the stock machine in front.
Interesting. I run my 32" BFG's at 10 psi in the rocks all the time with zero issues. However, I think you also described the actual issue. It has nothing to do with the tire. 25/35 mph on riprap covered trails will destroy any tire. Not criticizing how you ride. That's none of my business. Just saying you can't put the blame on the tires, regardless of what brand they are, when they are subjected to that kind of abuse.
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Can someone please explain what "riprap" is?
 

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I have the ST kit, and it’s night and day different from stock. The suspension just soaks up the rough terrain with very minimal cab movement. If you’re looking to just fix the sag, I’d get tender springs. But if you’re looking for improved ride quality, do a full blown kit.
 

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In my industry, in Colorado, riprap is shot rock (typically 6" to 24") that is used to armor around bridge abutments and piers to protect against scour from running water, as well as to armor river banks, ditch banks and anywhere else there may be running water, to protect from erosion. It is typically sharp and jagged since it is blasted from granite.
In Texas, riprap is concrete slope and ditch paving. Totally different down there.... :)

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I would say in the sharp rocks I will run 18-20. In slow rock crawling I think 12-15 would be perfect. I’m starting to see that I drive my peterbilt so careful during the week. That on the weekends I just wreck shop on my toys. Plus if I crash my krx I can still pay my mortgage not the same in the trucks. So I’ll drive safe on the road and unload that stress on the trail testing the limits of this unit.
LOL Hammer you must really like buying those 300 dollar tires not to mention what its probably doing to that sweet machine.
 

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Small/medium sharp stones and gravel. We have quite a bit of that here in AZ. It can do a number on tires if you don’t go easy.
In my industry, in Colorado, riprap is shot rock (typically 6" to 24") that is used to armor around bridge abutments and piers to protect against scour from running water, as well as to armor river banks, ditch banks and anywhere else there may be running water, to protect from erosion. It is typically sharp and jagged since it is blasted from granite.
In Texas, riprap is concrete slope and ditch paving. Totally different down there.... :)

View attachment 4214
Thanks for the reply's and for clearing that up for me.
 
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In my industry, in Colorado, riprap is shot rock (typically 6" to 24") that is used to armor around bridge abutments and piers to protect against scour from running water, as well as to armor river banks, ditch banks and anywhere else there may be running water, to protect from erosion. It is typically sharp and jagged since it is blasted from granite.
In Texas, riprap is concrete slope and ditch paving. Totally different down there.... :)

View attachment 4214
My Dad will flip his lid if I run down a limestone #2 (size of your thumb/broken by crusher) road, edges/points can be like arrowheads. After it is run in it breaks the edges and is less a problem. I run 10 ply tires on the Sequoia.
 
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