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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So I should be picking my buggy soon, . I am aware of the manufacturers suggestions of break in but I also am aware of the other philosophy which is run it hard. This link explains it: Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

I am thinking of running it hard, just like the article suggests. Anyone else out there "run it hard" for the break in? The article mentions non synthetic for the break in, does anyone know if Kawi puts synthetic oil from the factory?
 

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2021 Trail Edition, Shock Therapy, CageWRX Sport cage, 31"x10.50-15LT General Grabber X3's
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The break in oil is special break in oil, IDK what its special properties are. I just came in from driving around on dirt roads around my house for an hour and put the first 20 miles on our new ES. I'll be doing the break in the way the MFG suggests, even though driving around while slowly accelerating and decelerating is painfully annoying:cautious:.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The break in oil is special break in oil, IDK what its special properties are. I just came in from driving around on dirt roads around my house for an hour and put the first 20 miles on our new ES. I'll be doing the break in the way the MFG suggests, even though driving around while slowly accelerating and decelerating is painfully annoying:cautious:.
According to the article, babying it is the last thing you wanna do. Sure wish there was a clear consensus on this. lol
 

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The clear consensus is on page 67 in the operator's manual:



But you do whatever you want. Last thing I'd want is to have an engine failure and not have it covered because I didn't follow their guidelines.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The clear consensus is on page 67 in the operator's manual:

View attachment 6270

But you do whatever you want. Last thing I'd want is to have an engine failure and not have it covered because I didn't follow their guidelines.
Meh, means nothing to me. The corporations do not have our best interest at heart.
 

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Meh, means nothing to me. The corporations do not have our best interest at heart.
According to the manual, it states to alternate rpm’s and not hold it at a certain rpm for too long. Basically getting variations throughout the whole rpm range. I occasionally did a small burst here and there. I’d be careful of “running it hard” if you have engine failure Kawasaki dealer will find a way to not warranty it. Your call and your machine. My .02 cents. PS parts are on backorder for 5 months, no complete engine replacements are available, so if they do warranty it you’ll get a rebuild.
 

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According to the manual, it states to alternate rpm’s and not hold it at a certain rpm for too long. Basically getting variations throughout the whole rpm range. I occasionally did a small burst here and there. I’d be careful of “running it hard” if you have engine failure Kawasaki dealer will find a way to not warranty it. Your call and your machine. My .02 cents. PS parts are on backorder for 5 months, no complete engine replacements are available, so if they do warranty it you’ll get a rebuild.
some good advice here^^^^

where i work, i can always tell the folks that take care of their vehicles. the cars have 200k+, and still run and drive like new. the ones that are owned by people that don't are always the ones complaining that "that car/motorcycle/utv/etc. is a piece of crap". well for the most part, if you take care of it and follow the break-in procedure, you're gonna get an excellent return on your investment; the break in period is where the parts "get happy with each other".... things such as the rings to the cylinder, the camshafts, etc. WILL last much longer if they're given a chance during break-in.

I'm still of the opinion that the Kawasaki ecu has some "blackbox" capability, and that it takes note of when you are driving like a jackwagon. I've seen blackbox data in several other ECU's and it always amazes me what kind and how much information they store. things such as brake activation, throttle position (especially WOT), transmission range, sensor readings, ecu programming, date and time, etc. all are stored in the box.

FWIW: i drove ours by the book for the first 20ish hours, then it was occasional WOT. then after i was satisfied all was broken-in, i changed the oil and now hammer down at will.
 

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some good advice here^^^^

where i work, i can always tell the folks that take care of their vehicles. the cars have 200k+, and still run and drive like new. the ones that are owned by people that don't are always the ones complaining that "that car/motorcycle/utv/etc. is a piece of crap". well for the most part, if you take care of it and follow the break-in procedure, you're gonna get an excellent return on your investment; the break in period is where the parts "get happy with each other".... things such as the rings to the cylinder, the camshafts, etc. WILL last much longer if they're given a chance during break-in.

I'm still of the opinion that the Kawasaki ecu has some "blackbox" capability, and that it takes note of when you are driving like a jackwagon. I've seen blackbox data in several other ECU's and it always amazes me what kind and how much information they store. things such as brake activation, throttle position (especially WOT), transmission range, sensor readings, ecu programming, date and time, etc. all are stored in the box.

FWIW: i drove ours by the book for the first 20ish hours, then it was occasional WOT. then after i was satisfied all was broken-in, i changed the oil and now hammer down at will.
You are absolutely correct. The black box is also known as data logging. So unless the data is wiped they can extract the data view it on a PC and see exactly what the RPM and speed was when the engine failed. Throttle percentage included. Literally everything is in there.
In regards to mileage I am approaching 320k on my GMC TBI engine. She burns oil, but starts up every time. Maintenance and care is key.
 

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I've never had the nerve to try it, but for as long as I can remember, I've heard break them in like you want them to run. I probably ran the KRX a little harder than they wanted but I did change the oil like they suggest and it runs fine.
 

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I think the worse thing you can do is let it sit and idle for long times during break in. The only thing to really break in the the piston rings. The engine needs to be loaded to help seal the rings to the wall and prevent glazing of the cylinder. I've always heat cycled a couple times then wide open passes. I have no blow by at 1200 miles. Pretty much the same for race engine builders on a dyno. Couple of heat cycles, check everything out and send it to Jesus.
 

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Got a pair of DF300's on my boat, was instructed to follow a break-in period to properly 'wear-in' rings.
Easy to follow & have had no issues, for those who didn't, many had engines that "made" oil.
Seems the rings wouldn't rotate sufficiently to wear properly if run without varying rpm's for extended periods of time.
Resulting in fuel getting by, contaminating lube oil.
Tell tale is dipstick level rising....

Slow speed diesel engines (upwards of 980mm bore) I've dealt with often have a coating on new rings, jack up the cylinder oil rate, increase jacket temperature and follow break-in schedule. Skip steps & risk issues. Pulling a piston alongside the dock is a big job, having to do it drifting @ sea is not sane. 5T piston & rod swinging....:)
The slide ruler / pocket protector crowd know a lot about metallurgy, would put most folks to sleep.
Guidelines are for longevity, economy & performance, probably balanced out and not each reaching peak.
 

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I think the worse thing you can do is let it sit and idle for long times during break in. The only thing to really break in the the piston rings. The engine needs to be loaded to help seal the rings to the wall and prevent glazing of the cylinder. I've always heat cycled a couple times then wide open passes. I have no blow by at 1200 miles. Pretty much the same for race engine builders on a dyno. Couple of heat cycles, check everything out and send it to Jesus.
I’m on the same page as you probably 3-5 heat cycles then run it! Never had an engine issue.

Then on the other hand with an all new machine not just an engine rebuild you have a transmission and front and rear diffs to break in as well that need some miles put on em to go through a couple heat cycles. I just drive the machine like I normally would but I defiantly don’t go out of my way to be hard on it.
 

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Same here 4-5 heat cycles and off to the dunes for 2-days and no issues at all.
Always run good oil and change often and keep the air cleaner as clean as possible.
 

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Meh, means nothing to me. The corporations do not have our best interest at heart.
Might as well just dump all the fluids out as well then. I know it is suggested to use oil and coolant and all that, but hey, what do the manufacturers know about the products they build......?
 

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I am fairly new to the KRX side of the house but I have been in powersports for more than a few years now. I have owned several sxs's as well as Harley Davidsons and I have ALWAYS ran them like I plan to drive them. I will always dump the 1st oil after 3-4 heat cycles to remove any shavings in there that might have got past the filter and then just keep regular oil change intervals with a full synthetic oil. My Harley uses nothing but amsoil and this iteration of the motor has almost 60K on it and it runs better than new. my last bike still had factory hash marks on the cylinder walls after hitting 100K on that motor.
Good luck with whatever you decide to do.
 

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You guys are worried about your KRX, you should see how they unload your new car from the boat, train, transport truck. Daytona 500. The motor is already broke in within the first 2 miles, it’s not 1965 anymore. Best thing you could do for a new engine is let it eat to top speed a few times. First thing I did with my new Mazda, found a long highway and saw what it would do a few times. Doesn’t burn any oil between changes at all. Enjoy your new machine to the fullest extent, I couldn’t imagine puttering around at 1/2 throttle on a new machine.
 

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You guys are worried about your KRX, you should see how they unload your new car from the boat, train, transport truck. Daytona 500. The motor is already broke in within the first 2 miles, it’s not 1965 anymore. Best thing you could do for a new engine is let it eat to top speed a few times. First thing I did with my new Mazda, found a long highway and saw what it would do a few times. Doesn’t burn any oil between changes at all. Enjoy your new machine to the fullest extent, I couldn’t imagine puttering around at 1/2 throttle on a new machine.
It’s not 1965 you’re correct, but it is 2021 where data is everything. Run it hard blow it up. They will know. There goes your warranty.
 

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So I should be picking my buggy soon, . I am aware of the manufacturers suggestions of break in but I also am aware of the other philosophy which is run it hard. This link explains it: Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

I am thinking of running it hard, just like the article suggests. Anyone else out there "run it hard" for the break in? The article mentions non synthetic for the break in, does anyone know if Kawi puts synthetic oil from the factory?
Motoman's
So I should be picking my buggy soon, . I am aware of the manufacturers suggestions of break in but I also am aware of the other philosophy which is run it hard. This link explains it: Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

I am thinking of running it hard, just like the article suggests. Anyone else out there "run it hard" for the break in? The article mentions non synthetic for the break in, does anyone know if Kawi puts synthetic oil from the factory?
MotoMan's break in procedure has been like a Bible for me over many years and several machines. Based on my past experience with probably 12 off road machines ranging from new motorcycles to ATVs to several side x sides (starting with a brand new 2006 Rhino), I truly believe he is correct in his assessment on what a new motor needs to run its best. I have never had an engine related issue on any of the machines using his break in technique. But the thing is...it's not just "running it hard". You have to follow his recommendations correctly...run it at XX% throttle then let it fully cool...run it a xx% and let it cool again, etc.
 
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