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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I removed the factory knuckles and installed my Hymark knuckles today.
The Hymarks are much heavier built than the stock ones and uses a much heavier lower ball joint from a Dodge Charger.
As expected the factory camber was negative 2.4 degrees, negative camber helps the handling in rough terrain but I like to run a bit less as we run a lot of back roads, the knuckles adjusted my camber to Negative .5 degrees which I prefer. (see pictures)

After getting it all back together it was time to adjust the toe and the alignment of the front to the back which was WAY off from the factory, the toe in changes as the machine goes through the suspension cycle so you want to make your adjustments at "ride height" to do this I set the full weight of the machine on a set of dollies so the suspension can move out as it compresses, the factory toe in was 2.25" (way too much) and the alignment to the back wheels was WAY off, I use a laser to measure how straight the front wheels are in comparison to the back, the right front wheel was over 8" out compared to the Left, I correct this by making sure the steering wheel is straight and adjusting each front wheel until they are equal to the back with the laser while watching the toe in, I was able to get the left and right alignment within a 1\2" of the back and set the toe in at 1\8" at ride height, at full droop (tires off the ground) the toe in is 1.25", it was 3.5" from the factory.

Pictures show my alignment bars and my dolly, and laser setup.... maybe crude but it works!

I'll work on the rear suspension geometry next, I have aftermarket rear control arms which are fully adjustable.
My tires shipped today, I'm going with Tusk Megabites in 34x10x15


 

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With the weight of the machine setting on the lower balljoint which is 4" inboard of the hub mounting service how do you figure you are getting any form of an accurate alignment? As soon as that thing is sitting on wheels they are going to have more leverage on the a arm/shock and the a-arms are gonna be setting further up in their stroke.
 

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With the weight of the machine setting on the lower balljoint which is 4" inboard of the hub mounting service how do you figure you are getting any form of an accurate alignment? As soon as that thing is sitting on wheels they are going to have more leverage on the a arm/shock and the a-arms are gonna be setting further up in their stroke.
Always have done alignment with weight of vehicle and suspension settled for accuracy.
 

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I agree with you the alignment must be done with the weight of the vehicle on the suspension, What I’m saying is your not getting an accurate representation of the suspension being settled. Once the wheels are on it which mount further outboard of where you are currently placing the weight (lower ball joint on the dolly) your shock is going to be compressed further (a-arms will be flatter) which is going to throw off your toe.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
With the weight of the machine setting on the lower balljoint which is 4" inboard of the hub mounting service how do you figure you are getting any form of an accurate alignment? As soon as that thing is sitting on wheels they are going to have more leverage on the a arm/shock and the a-arms are gonna be setting further up in their stroke.
I have used this method many times and it is accurate, the difference of the weight on the ball joint vs. the hub is negligible.
Plus the toe changes though the suspension stroke so all you can do it set it at ride height which will change with passengers and accessories.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
ouch, $2500 bucks. I can get a 2 post or 4 post car lift for that price point.
yea, it's pricy but well worth is to me, I've used it a lot, I added additional wheels to mine so when it's not in use I can roll it under my workbench out of the way, I have a 4 post lift as well but it usually has a car parked on it but I will use the 4 post to install the skid plates..
 
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