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2021 KRX 1000 Blue
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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Well mods have continued:
1. Tusk skid plate
2. Kawasaki nerf bars
3. STI X Comp A/T 33/10-15E tires.
4. New bushings in drivers door.
5. RCOR tender springs
6. Upper shock mount braces

Ordered the Rugged Radio 634 universal intercom kit.

Getting use to operating Gaia GPS app on the tablet.
 

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Yo Snoking,
I see you installed a USB outlet/voltage display in the lower row of switches.
I did the same & found my hand bumping into a cord end when shifting into H.
May not be an issue if ya'll don't shift much but in tight areas its a concern.
Swapped it out with an upper row on/off switch.
Thankx for posting your mods.
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
I have USB cables with right hand ends on them(as shown in earlier picture when tablet was on the dash) so I have not had conflict when I charge my phone in the cup holder. Tablet is now getting power from an adapter in the cigarette lighter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
Installed a Rugged Radio 364 Intercom today. Put a 9" x 24" piece on ABS on the standoffs on the roof. The cables for the headset travel above the ABS to the rear and come down roll cage behind the seats. The connection to the Rugged radio, power for the intercom and another PTT button go down the A pillar on the passengers side. Between a trip to ACE for screws and nuts/bolts I spend about 6 or 7 hours on this project.
 

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Thanks for sharing, that was a great way to route the cables. Nice job!
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 · (Edited)
Well I got some more jewelry for my gal today. The Full Access transmission skid plate and the lower and upper A-frame supports. As note earlier I have the Tusk 3/8" full skid plate, so I lowered the rear of it and slid it in above the Tusk to see what holes align between the two. The rear two are the same so I put those two pan washers and bolts in and marked the Full Access skid plate where the next two mounting pan washers and bolts our located, which is near the front of the FA skid plate. I removed it and drilled the two holes in the FA skid plate for the Tusk bolts. I then put it back above the Tusk skid plate and install the four Tusk skid plate bolts. This is vs the hardware that come with the FA skid plate. It should be enough to keep it in place as that segment of the Tusk skid plate extends a couple more feet froward with a lot more mounting bolts.

Now to the front upper and lower A-frame supports installed with the machine just sitting in the car port. Time consuming as one is working in tight quarters to remove the lower A-arm nuts, install the support strap the goes to the other side and reinstall the nuts. On the uppers there are two straps and longer bolts with new nuts, which did not use the same side wrenches.

 

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Thanks for sharing. Isn't the KRX a fun hobby? I know I get a lot out of it.
 
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Discussion Starter · #50 · (Edited)
I decided to add some more bolts the transmission skid plate. So ACE is the place. I got some 3/8 SS hex drive bolts and used the washers and nylocs that came with the skit plate. Did the two on the front end of the skid plate. drilled the holes from the bottom, aka a lot of work laying on the carport. I relived the ABS Tusk skid plate with a 5/8 spade bit. So these two bolt sandwich the Full Access skid plate to the OEM skid plate. I will look at putting two more near the rear of the FA skid plate on another day.
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 · (Edited)
So this morning I installed two more 3/8" bolts at the rear sandwiching the Full Access skid plate to the OEM tin one.

As a review here are the steps I took:

1. Removed the four back Tusk Skid plate bolts and pan washers.
2. Slid the Full Access skid plate in above the Tusk skid plate.
3. Installed the back two Tusk Skid plate bolts and pan washers, as those holes were the same.
4. Squared up the front of the FA skid plate with the Tusk one. And marked the FA skid plate to drill holes through it so the other two Tusk bolts and pan washers could be reinstalled.
5. Removed the FA skid plate and drilled the two required holes.
6. Reinstall the FA skid plate and the four Tusk bolts and pan washers.
7. Located four places in drill holes up through the Tusk, FA and OEM skid plate where the OEM skid plate was flat against the FA skid plate.
8. Started with small drill bits drilling up through three layers. At 1/4" hole I use a 5/8" spade drill bit to create a larger hole just in the ABS plastic.
9. Drill the two steel plates to 3/8" for the SS hex drive bolts to be recessed up in the Tusk skid plate. Used the nuts and washers that came with the Full Access skid plate to bolt the two metal skid plates together.

So now the rear area has belt and suspenders holding things together.
 

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