That's the first I'm hearing of this, that's really odd. Were you able to get all the bolts out?
Stripped bolts
Is anyone else having problems Phillips head shoulder bolts being over tightend and stripped in frame tubes. I just puchased this thing and went to install rock sliders and wide fender flares and 1 in ten bolts are stripped
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Yes there self tapping sholder bolts that hold fenders and door skins on
Were you able to fix it as well?Same issue here.
yes had to tap holes and purchase better sholder bolts from McMastercarr
That's good to hear, can't believe Kawasaki let this happen right out of the gate.yes had to tap holes and purchase better sholder bolts from McMastercarr
Looks like Kawi has some slight revising to do for the next year model.
I had the same issue with mine while installing rock sliders and nerf bars. Take the air tools away from the production folks.
Wow, not good.I had the same issue with mine while installing rock sliders and nerf bars. Take the air tools away from the production folks.
I guess better bolts will become a hot topic here along with which ones to buy. At least till Kawi does something.
Yes, the pan head phillips head screws tapped into the steel frame.
The worst is the screw inside the door well holding the front fender flare, since you can't get to it straight on. In that case, I had to cut the plastic to the expose the screw then cut the screw off. I then reamed the hole slightly bigger and attached the new wider fender flare with pin plugs.
Here is a good hint. When installing the nerf bars, the same screws hold the plastic rocker panel under the door. Having just messed around with the fender flares I was very pissed off, because the screws would not come out of course. So I took a light and magnifying glass and was barely able to discern dimples on the outside of the panels to locate where to drill the 1.5" holes for the nerf bars. In other words, I didn't need to remove the racker panel. It worked just fine. That saved me a lot of frustration and cursing!
The other location I had to deal with this stupid screw was on the rail behind the seats when installing a SuperAtv rear windshield. At least this was accessible and I got it out using a old fashioned hammer impact screw remover. SuperAtv provided hex-head screws instead, which is what Kawasaki should have used to begin with.
The worst is the screw inside the door well holding the front fender flare, since you can't get to it straight on. In that case, I had to cut the plastic to the expose the screw then cut the screw off. I then reamed the hole slightly bigger and attached the new wider fender flare with pin plugs.
Here is a good hint. When installing the nerf bars, the same screws hold the plastic rocker panel under the door. Having just messed around with the fender flares I was very pissed off, because the screws would not come out of course. So I took a light and magnifying glass and was barely able to discern dimples on the outside of the panels to locate where to drill the 1.5" holes for the nerf bars. In other words, I didn't need to remove the racker panel. It worked just fine. That saved me a lot of frustration and cursing!
The other location I had to deal with this stupid screw was on the rail behind the seats when installing a SuperAtv rear windshield. At least this was accessible and I got it out using a old fashioned hammer impact screw remover. SuperAtv provided hex-head screws instead, which is what Kawasaki should have used to begin with.
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
- This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Kawasaki KRX Forum
KRXForum.com - Kawasaki KRX Forum, Community And Owner's Club. Join to discuss the KRX price, specs, performance and more!
Full Forum Listing
Recommended Communities
