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I didn't know that the front springs were heavier but it makes sense. I use my IQS to make it brake with even less dive by setting the switch to firm. It's great for cornering also for the same reason.
 

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I’m going to throw you guys some helpful info. No matter what springs or crossovers you get for your Kawasaki? Non of that is going to make a big improvement For your dollars spent! People may think so, or want to feel so, or tell themselves so, but it’s just the truth.
I have been doing this for a long time!!
The stock spring rates are actually pretty close to what they should be. So why spend monies unnecessarily? people are changing springs rates and lengths to “bandage” the stock valving!

The stock valving is horrible!! Way way over firm.
I am not even changing the stock springs on the Kawasaki! I’m Using the stock springs to save cash, and only revalving and install new Fox reservoir shreader valve end caps. Or you can drill out and tap the stock caps with a shreader valve for pennies!! This way you can use nitrogen pressures to help tune to taste. The stock shocks have only 100 to 110 psi. This is bare minimum psi.

I’m just trying to point you guys and gals on where your monies could be spent to make the most difference!
Valving valving valving is what those stock Foxes need most to let the Kawasaki shine!!
 

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I’m Using the stock springs to save cash, and only revalving and install new Fox reservoir shreader valve end caps. Or you can drill out and tap the stock caps with a shreader valve for pennies!! This way you can use nitrogen pressures to help tune to taste. The stock shocks have only 100 to 110 psi. This is bare minimum psi.
It would certainly be less expensive to check and adjust N2 levels to see how it effects things before spending $$$ on springs. :unsure:
 

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I’m going to throw you guys some helpful info. No matter what springs or crossovers you get for your Kawasaki? Non of that is going to make a big improvement For your dollars spent! People may think so, or want to feel so, or tell themselves so, but it’s just the truth.
I have been doing this for a long time!!
The stock spring rates are actually pretty close to what they should be. So why spend monies unnecessarily? people are changing springs rates and lengths to “bandage” the stock valving!

The stock valving is horrible!! Way way over firm.
I am not even changing the stock springs on the Kawasaki! I’m Using the stock springs to save cash, and only revalving and install new Fox reservoir shreader valve end caps. Or you can drill out and tap the stock caps with a shreader valve for pennies!! This way you can use nitrogen pressures to help tune to taste. The stock shocks have only 100 to 110 psi. This is bare minimum psi.

I’m just trying to point you guys and gals on where your monies could be spent to make the most difference!
Valving valving valving is what those stock Foxes need most to let the Kawasaki shine!!
This is just flat out false... the springs sag and you only have about an inch of adjustment to compensate. That’s not valving. That’s weight on springs. The valving is pretty decent. The stock spring rates aren’t bad but a simple change of springs makes a huge difference for not only ride height but handling. Springs are probably some of the best money that you can spend on the machine. At least for those that have lost ride height and need it.
 

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2020 KRX
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I agree with both of you. @Pound sand has a valid point that in fact valving does make a difference. But @JTW drives the real problem home, sagging.
If the stock springs would hold the weight of all the accessories, we most likely wouldn’t be talking about changing springs.

If you’re a guy that’s never going to carry passengers, never add an accessory, never carries a cooler, and rides dunes and/or high speed trails all day, then yeah, you could probably get away with the stock springs, and do the revalving.
 

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I agree with both of you. @Pound sand has a valid point that in fact valving does make a difference. But @JTW drives the real problem home, sagging.
If the stock springs would hold the weight of all the accessories, we most likely wouldn’t be talking about changing springs.

If you’re a guy that’s never going to carry passengers, never add an accessory, never carries a cooler, and rides dunes and/or high speed trails all day, then yeah, you could probably get away with the stock springs, and do the revalving.
If It were not for the sagging I would not have changed springs. I will get valving done, i just don’t want to go through the trouble of packing up and sending off At this time. Scharger valves are already in the immediate future as I went through the leaky fox rubber valves previously in another machine.
 

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I agree with both of you. @Pound sand has a valid point that in fact valving does make a difference. But @JTW drives the real problem home, sagging.
If the stock springs would hold the weight of all the accessories, we most likely wouldn’t be talking about changing springs.

If you’re a guy that’s never going to carry passengers, never add an accessory, never carries a cooler, and rides dunes and/or high speed trails all day, then yeah, you could probably get away with the stock springs, and do the revalving.
yes, you are correct, I’m taking about the majority of users would not need new springs. Of course we will have people on both sides of the spectrum of lesser weighted car occupants, with minimal cargo, to higher weighted occupants with heavier cargo loads.
The heaviest side is NOT the majority norm. This is completely okay, it’s not a bad thing, it is what it is.
So of course a more custom set up is needed for this situation.
the Heavier loads will overcome the “over firm” valving, and higher rated springs would be needed to compensate for the heavier loads of the car.

Some car owners tend to sometimes feel their own personal set up is reflective of what most everyone else should have. I do shock set ups for owners all over this country and world. And the set ups are based on what I explained above as a norm, there will always be a lesser percentage that fit outside of that norm. Valving would be different, along with spring rate choices to fit their personal car Preferences.

Think about having and driving around an empty “one ton” load rated truck on the highway. This truck is going to be pretty rough going down the road with no loads in or on the truck. But now load the truck up with heavy loads, and the truck becomes much smoother down the road.
then think about having that “half ton” load rated truck, it is much smoother down the road while empty, but fill the truck up with a heavy load, and the springs are now sacked out and it’s dragging ass down the road feeling overloaded!

See the comparisons?!
If you run around with a heavy loaded Kawasaki, then your going to need the heavier suspension set up over all. Lesser loads normally??? Then lesser weight rated suspension set up fits that owner for smoother operation
 

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2020 KRX
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394 Posts
I’m definitely not in the “norm” category for sure. But yet I find it hard to believe that “most” people are driving around with a bone stock Kawi.
My buggy has about 300 miles on it, and I can see the difference in the clearance from the sagging going on. I’m not running around with a ton of accessories on it either, no more then I would think the average buyer would pick up.
Roof
Front bumper
Nerf bars
Trunk
Spare tire
Small cooler
Windshield front/rear plastic
Tool kit
Spare belt

Basically all of those are enough to sag the OEM springs. Now toss my 6’4” 300 pound a$$ in the car, and guess what happens?
 

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I’m definitely not in the “norm” category for sure. But yet I find it hard to believe that “most” people are driving around with a bone stock Kawi.
My buggy has about 300 miles on it, and I can see the difference in the clearance from the sagging going on. I’m not running around with a ton of accessories on it either, no more then I would think the average buyer would pick up.
Roof
Front bumper
Nerf bars
Trunk
Spare tire
Small cooler
Windshield front/rear plastic
Tool kit
Spare belt

Basically all of those are enough to sag the OEM springs. Now toss my 6’4” 300 pound a$$ in the car, and guess what happens?
ok Rob,
You can give yourself more ride hight by adjusting the spring collars downwards, if you haven’t already done? Don’t worry about numbers!! Adjust to get the ride hight that works for you.
the.
You can try this, save you some money if you want to take on the task? Or purchase the Fox shreader valve end caps. I have them fir about $140 for 4. You just need the ability to fill them back up with nitrogen.

You can take the shocks off the car to do this, or do it on the car is fine. Jack the car up so the shocks are fully extended. Use a medical “hollow needle” to Pierce the center of the reservoir endcap. This will release the nitrogen pressures. Then push the the cap inwards till it stops. Reach in the with a small prick and remove the metal clip ring that will allow the cap to be removed. Purchase 4 hi pressures shreader valves. You can drill out the center of these caps and drill and tap to install the shreader valves. Cement these or thread seal so they don’t leak. Clean and grease the oring and Reinstall.
stick pressure is 100 to 110 psi at full extension. For you! start with 120 to 130 psi. This will add to your ride hight and help your stock or aftermarket springs. It will also help with body roll and bottom out resistance. It will allow you to run the dials on softer settings also. Don’t worry about to much pressures in those Foxes, they can run up past 200 psi easy! So if you have a nitrogen set up or know someone that has it? You can get a small bottle, lower pressure gauges and set up for under $200. Then you have the ability to test and tune to your flavor!!
hope this helps ya out!!
 

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2020 KRX
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394 Posts
ok Rob,
You can give yourself more ride hight by adjusting the spring collars downwards, if you haven’t already done? Don’t worry about numbers!! Adjust to get the ride hight that works for you.
the.
You can try this, save you some money if you want to take on the task? Or purchase the Fox shreader valve end caps. I have them fir about $140 for 4. You just need the ability to fill them back up with nitrogen.

You can take the shocks off the car to do this, or do it on the car is fine. Jack the car up so the shocks are fully extended. Use a medical “hollow needle” to Pierce the center of the reservoir endcap. This will release the nitrogen pressures. Then push the the cap inwards till it stops. Reach in the with a small prick and remove the metal clip ring that will allow the cap to be removed. Purchase 4 hi pressures shreader valves. You can drill out the center of these caps and drill and tap to install the shreader valves. Cement these or thread seal so they don’t leak. Clean and grease the oring and Reinstall.
stick pressure is 100 to 110 psi at full extension. For you! start with 120 to 130 psi. This will add to your ride hight and help your stock or aftermarket springs. It will also help with body roll and bottom out resistance. It will allow you to run the dials on softer settings also. Don’t worry about to much pressures in those Foxes, they can run up past 200 psi easy! So if you have a nitrogen set up or know someone that has it? You can get a small bottle, lower pressure gauges and set up for under $200. Then you have the ability to test and tune to your flavor!!
hope this helps ya out!!
Thanks for the info. I didn’t bother doing any adjustments to the factory springs as I know the end results. So I already have the ST springs, I’ll be putting them on after I get the front end replaced at the dealership.

I’m going to see how it is with just the springs and factory shocks. If I’m still not satisfied, then I’ll hit you up for those valve end caps. I’m definitely going to need to school myself on doing that procedure as it’s all new to me at this point. I’ll need to source the nitrogen for sure, but everything else was “new” to me at some point. Never stopped me before!!! 👍🏻
 

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So. We are driving these cars around on some pretty sophisticated long travel N2 charged suspension systems and most of us have no idea of the exact charge pressures in our shocks? I certainly don't at this point.
Working with pressurized refrigerants, and other pressurized systems for a living, this really sets off a baseline red flag for me as a starting point in the tuning process. From my experience, it's going to leak if it's man made and under pressure, and it's not going to leak on an even basis among shocks. One shock could be at a full charge and another at 30% and I would be messing with springs and cross overs to make things better? Perhaps I'm way off base here, but my inner QC OCD is insisting that knowing charge pressures is a must before starting any real tuning process. It's like having tires with no way to know the tire pressure and adding grooving to try and make them handle better. Tires that the mfg. says to send in to be filled and checked because overfilling can be dangerous. Kind of disappointed that Fox and Kawasaki think we are too stupid to do this ourselves.
I'm very thankful for all the information I am getting from this forum!
 

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I decided on the Bandit black heavy spring kit. I have a bunch of aftermarket weight added to my car. They came yesterday and I spent the morning installing them. I rode around the block a few times but obviously it will take some more time on rough terrain to get them to settle out all the way. However with the recommended starting spring measurements provided by Bandit, at this point I have gained 2.5" of ride height in front and 3.5 in the rear. Measuring under the 3/8" uhmw aftermarket skid plate its 15.5 front and 15.0 rear. Going out riding tomorrow so we'll se what I get when I get back. Will be doing mostly slow trails and rock crawling. I'm anxious to try them out!
I just wish they offered colors, I already miss the red springs! Oh well function before form, right?
Before and after photos below.
1467

1468

1469

1470
 

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Bandit spring ride report.
The wife and I just got home from a 40 mile ride. All kinds of terrain, from major slow rock crawling, to fast-ish jeep roads with some moderate g-outs, and some very steep loose soft and rocky with rock ledges climbs, with all kinds of washes mixed in. WOW! These springs are fantastic! Very apparent how they smooth over the smaller jostling bumps and they soak up the harder hits and g-outs much better than stock. Getting the ground clearance back is so nice! I'd forgotten how much fun it is to ride without hitting bottom all the time. Articulation seems to still be quite good as well. The rear end doesn't squat nearly as much on steep climbs which really helps the confidence level too. Also the crossover knock was completely gone. I did notice the front shocks topping out a few times which I had never noticed with the stock springs, might go with some limiter straps out front. Checked the spring sage and I lost 1/2" in the front and nothing in the rear so far. I think I'll dial both ends up another 1/2" ride height and see how they hold up from there. So far I'm very happy with the Bandit heavy black spring kit. Still miss the red springs though! :cry:
 

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I’m going to throw you guys some helpful info. No matter what springs or crossovers you get for your Kawasaki? Non of that is going to make a big improvement For your dollars spent! People may think so, or want to feel so, or tell themselves so, but it’s just the truth.
I have been doing this for a long time!!
The stock spring rates are actually pretty close to what they should be. So why spend monies unnecessarily? people are changing springs rates and lengths to “bandage” the stock valving!

The stock valving is horrible!! Way way over firm.
I am not even changing the stock springs on the Kawasaki! I’m Using the stock springs to save cash, and only revalving and install new Fox reservoir shreader valve end caps. Or you can drill out and tap the stock caps with a shreader valve for pennies!! This way you can use nitrogen pressures to help tune to taste. The stock shocks have only 100 to 110 psi. This is bare minimum psi.

I’m just trying to point you guys and gals on where your monies could be spent to make the most difference!
Valving valving valving is what those stock Foxes need most to let the Kawasaki shine!!
I'm new to this group, just bought me a KRX last month, going to take it to Shock Therapy in a few months for the re-valve and springs.
I had a RZR RS1 that I had them re-valve back in Oct, the guy that did it told me that the front left Walker Evans shock was carbonized do to it leaking the nitrogen into the oil, It was basically a pogo stick and it came from the factory like that. I would never have known that if I did not get the work done. He said he see's that once in a while.
 

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I'm new to this group, just bought me a KRX last month, going to take it to Shock Therapy in a few months for the re-valve and springs.
I had a RZR RS1 that I had them re-valve back in Oct, the guy that did it told me that the front left Walker Evans shock was carbonized do to it leaking the nitrogen into the oil, It was basically a pogo stick and it came from the factory like that. I would never have known that if I did not get the work done. He said he see's that once in a while.
If you can afford it get IQS also. On a ride yesterday I must ha changed the compression dampening over 50 times. It makes the springs and RIS so much better. It is as good as ST claims it is.
 

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2020 Kawasaki KRX
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Discussion Starter #80
I went with the bandit stage 3 and I love them. The springs are a lot stiffer than oem with that being said I run my compression settings at full soft for the slow trail speed and it makes for a nice ride, I have noticed with the stiffer spring the ride only gets better the faster you go. And I have also installed shock therapy Springs on my uncle’s KRX and I will tell you the bandits are a much easier install then ST, the bandits are the same exactly length as the oem springs , ST springs are much longer. We had to crank the pre load down a lot more on the ST springs to sit the same height as my bandits. They are both great springs. Hope this helps.
Any updates to share with us? How does the ride compare to the OEM ride with some miles on them, and compression adjusted to full soft? What's your ride height? I ride slow, rocky trails and don't want to end up with a harsh ride. I'm also concerned that the stage 2 springs might be too soft and I wouldn't gain anything by installing them.
 
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