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Shock Therapy Springs installed!

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#64 ·
There is a lot of info on this thread. For the price of Shock Therapy springs from Pro UTV Parts, it is the clear winner for the KRX. The KRX has an amazing ride on these springs when you raise the crossover nuts a little bit. The higher you raise the nuts, the better the ride at the expense of handling. Find the balance that works for you.

www.proutvparts.com

Dual Rate Spring Kit (DRS) 2020+ KRX 1000 by Shock Therapy

ecsDual Rate Spring Kit (DRS) 2020+ KRX 1000 PRODUCT DESCRIPTION Dual Rate Spring Kit (DRS) 2020+ KRX 1000 and 2022+ KRX 4 This kit can be ordered with or without Shock Therapy Silent Crossovers This kit includes: 8 Springs 4 silent crossovers (optional) Width:37.00 (in) Height:13.00 (in)...
www.proutvparts.com www.proutvparts.com

Use this code for the discount at checkout. "Shock Therapy"
 
#67 · (Edited)
Gravel said:
‘Yes, 350 Front Upper, 245 rear upper/tender.

Agree with Craig, ST springs are a great value! I’m used to paying $150-175 for a single dirt bike shock spring, ST kit is 8 springs.
Click to expand...
For my RZR I bought all my springs separate form Eibach, because ST just says "trust me" and sends what they want. They won't give you requested rates. I did the rate curves and knew what I wanted to accomplish. I ended up with a mixture of Eibach, stock , and OEM from other RZRs
 
Discussion starter · #68 ·
Zilla said:
For my RZR I bought all my springs separate form Eibach, because ST just says "trust me" and sends what they want. They won't give you requested rates. I did the rate curves and knew what I wanted to accomplish. I ended up with a mixture of Eibach, stock , and OEM from other RZRs
Click to expand...
I don’t think the KRX community has the database to do that very effectively yet. I considered trying it, but the info is hard to find and I didn’t want to do through the hassle when ST already exists.
 
#69 ·
Gravel said:
I don’t think the KRX community has the database to do that very effectively yet. I considered trying it, but the info is hard to find and I didn’t want to do through the hassle when ST already exists.
Click to expand...
Don't blame you one bit...I wasn't implying that everyone should take the route I did...on the contrary.
I have my RZR suspension "dialed" between my springs and valve setup, and it still only performs "close" to as good as the stock KRX suspension. But,....anyone who has driven a stock RZR compared to a stock KRX should understand the significance of that improvement.
 
#70 ·
What's your install measurements on the ST springs? If I remember right their instructions tell you to flip the divider over even. I did everything per ST and I have bad rubbing on the fronts. The dividers rub hard on one side of the shock body throughout the suspension cycle and it makes a GROANING noise. Still rides great but annoying as hell. I have rotated/re-clocked them but have not yet found a sweet spot. I need to try again.
 
Discussion starter · #71 ·
Zilla said:
Don't blame you one bit...I wasn't implying that everyone should take the route I did...on the contrary.
I have my RZR suspension "dialed" between my springs and valve setup, and it still only performs "close" to as good as the stock KRX suspension. But,....anyone who has driven a stock RZR compared to a stock KRX should understand the significance of that improvement.
Click to expand...
‘You’ve got my full respect for getting that done, maybe the info will develop for the KRX sometime soon. After driving mine with the ST setup, I’m positive that I would have gone the wrong direction with mine. I was convinced that the stock springs were too stiff, especially in back, so it would have been an expensive project. I would have gone through two or more sets of coils to get it close to dialed in, would‘ve been at least 3x the cost of my ST set.

I‘ve been through this process with dirt bikes many times. It sucks when you install shiny new parts and realize they’re the wrong thing within 5 minutes of riding.
 
#73 ·
abilliott said:
What's your install measurements on the ST springs? If I remember right their instructions tell you to flip the divider over even. I did everything per ST and I have bad rubbing on the fronts. The dividers rub hard on one side of the shock body throughout the suspension cycle and it makes a GROANING noise. Still rides great but annoying as hell. I have rotated/re-clocked them but have not yet found a sweet spot. I need to try again.
Click to expand...
I have found that most springs rub. Eibach springs may have a slightly bigger ID than Shock Therapy. Measure your springs and post the ID and I will check.
 
#74 ·
craigstumph said:
I have found that most springs rub. Eibach springs may have a slightly bigger ID than Shock Therapy. Measure your springs and post the ID and I will check.
Click to expand...
Ok, so just to verify, your looking for me to give you the inside width of the coils, is that the ID your needing? I was thinking I might need to try re-clocking them again, or letting off the tops springs compression some. It was crazy tight getting it on so with it groaning I was thinking my lengths might be off and I've over done it.

Concerned that either it is what it is and just something to deal with, or I've over compressed it and its tight and binding.
 
#75 ·
The settings for any springs (measuring how far from this point to that point) is merely a starting point, after your springs are installed you need to check ride height which should be around 15" with factory size tires (add a 1\2" for every inch of additional tire size if you are running larger tires) this measurement needs to be taken at the bottom of the shock mounts in the front and the bottom of the frame in the rear and needs to be taken after moving the machine to make sure the suspension is settled and preferably with the weight you will be carrying (if you ride with 2 people most of the time 2 people should be in the car when measuring)
Once you have the ride height where it needs to be it's time to adjust the crossovers, these can be set at anywhere from 1" to 3.5" depending on the type of ride you are looking for (this measurement is taken between the crossover ring and the top of the spring divider) more distance between will give you a plusher ride but more body roll, less will stiffen the ride up a bit but will help control body roll.
There is no set measurement for everyone or every machine.
 
#76 ·
abilliott said:
Ok, so just to verify, your looking for me to give you the inside width of the coils, is that the ID your needing? I was thinking I might need to try re-clocking them again, or letting off the tops springs compression some. It was crazy tight getting it on so with it groaning I was thinking my lengths might be off and I've over done it.

Concerned that either it is what it is and just something to deal with, or I've over compressed it and its tight and binding.
Click to expand...
The longer the springs the more likely you are to have "worse" rubbing. You were right about trying the clocking again. You do not want to change your pre-load to aleviate it. I clock my springs with the vehicle suspended then lower it to check it "Because it will react differently once compressed....Move your spring divider by hand...if you can move it a lot in one direction but none in others than you need to keep adjusting....The goal is to find a spot that you have the most play in the most directions. You want it to feel as close to "floating" as possible. When you are finished you will still have rubbing....the best you can do is minimize it.
 
#77 · (Edited)
Gravel said:
To Zillas point, I adjusted the crossovers up to get more soft travel on the stock springs, that probably helped kill the uppers because they were getting pretty close to coil bind at the crossover point. Rode better that way though!
Click to expand...
Right Nothing wrong wrong with that. Depending on the conditions I would do the same.
 
Discussion starter · #78 · (Edited)
SteveCornell said:
The settings for any springs (measuring how far from this point to that point) is merely a starting point, after your springs are installed you need to check ride height which should be around 15" with factory size tires (add a 1\2" for every inch of additional tire size if you are running larger tires) this measurement needs to be taken at the bottom of the shock mounts in the front and the bottom of the frame in the rear and needs to be taken after moving the machine to make sure the suspension is settled and preferably with the weight you will be carrying (if you ride with 2 people most of the time 2 people should be in the car when measuring)
Once you have the ride height where it needs to be it's time to adjust the crossovers, these can be set at anywhere from 1" to 3.5" depending on the type of ride you are looking for (this measurement is taken between the crossover ring and the top of the spring divider) more distance between will give you a plusher ride but more body roll, less will stiffen the ride up a bit but will help control body roll.
There is no set measurement for everyone or every machine.
Click to expand...
I‘ve been using my axle angle as an additional guide for setting preload / ride height, along with ground clearance measurements. From reading here it sounds like 15 deg is a safe max angle? I like having something else to measure in addition to ground clearance, tires vary a lot.

currently I’m between 14-15 degrees at empty ride height. It’s a couple inches higher than when I started, the stock springs kept sagging. To Zillas point, I adjusted the crossovers up to get more soft travel on the stock springs, that probably helped kill the uppers because they were getting pretty close to coil bind at the crossover point. Rode better that way though!
 
Discussion starter · #80 ·
Zilla said:
That info you're talking about will likely have to be done by you. There wasn't any guideline for my set-up, just had to get in there and figure it out. It's a time consuming project on these machines. Your initial feelings may have not been wrong about going softer. Just because ST does it a certain way, doesn't mean that's the only or "correct" way. I've found the Crossover point is the most crucial thing in the system...Probably more so than the rates themselves. It's good to figure out your curves just to know where to set your crossover to get the results you want.
Click to expand...
‘Nice presentation of the spring curves, very understandable. Did you get into valving your shocks?
 
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