What?when off call Kawasaki no complaints ?
I am guessing high idle is a common issue with these? Everyone seems to jump right to that with a hard shift. It could be many things...worn belt, dirty clutch etc etc... literally 99% of the time its in the clutching.Engine temp and RPM when it's hard to shift?
They idle high on first start. The wet clutch will start to drag at 1300 RPM and make it hard to shift. 1400 or over it just won't shift while running. With the wet clutch it's high idle, problem with the one way bearing or a physical problem in the linkage or transmission. Belt and CVT have nothing to do with it, there is nothing moving in there with the wet clutch.I am guessing high idle is a common issue with these? Everyone seems to jump right to that with a hard shift. It could be many things...worn belt, dirty clutch etc etc... literally 99% of the time its in the clutching.
They idle high on first start. The wet clutch will start to drag at 1300 RPM and make it hard to shift. 1400 or over it just won't shift while running. With the wet clutch it's high idle, problem with the one way bearing or a physical problem in the linkage or transmission. Belt and CVT have nothing to do with it, there is nothing moving in there with the wet clutch.
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Well.... If this wet clutch is such a PITA why isn't someone working on a delete set up for it? Rather that just weights and springs
They idle high on first start. The wet clutch will start to drag at 1300 RPM and make it hard to shift. 1400 or over it just won't shift while running. With the wet clutch it's high idle, problem with the one way bearing or a physical problem in the linkage or transmission. Belt and CVT have nothing to do with it, there is nothing moving in there with the wet clutch.
Because it not a PITA and a much better setup. People coming from Polaris and CanAm just aren't used it/don't understand it.Well.... If this wet clutch is such a PITA why isn't someone working on a delete set up for it? Rather that just weights and springs
Check for some free play in the throttle cable first. Easiest fix. The is also an adjustment on the non adjustable Accelerator position sensor. I think it's a t30 security bit. Someone on one of the FB groups just had this be the issue.Old thread but mine is doing this. The idle is too high and it’s near impossible to change gears. After it warms up it’s at 1500 or even 1800 rpm. I have to turn the engine off to change gears. If I put it in neutral and rev it up to 3000-4000 sometimes the idle returns to 1250. Any ideas? Wasn’t there a post somewhere about cleaning something behind the dash for the throttle cable?
My rear pads made it to 1278 but 900 of those miles were on stock tires. The fronts need replaced to but I did them on a trip in the rain so rears were good enough. The fluid level is a good indicator of brake pad life on these. There isn't much spare in the reservoir so low fluid = low brake pads assuming no leaks.Thanks guys! I’m just back from a big ride. It happened on the last day late, yesterday. This morning I didn’t fight it, just turned engine off to change gears to get it off the trailer and wash it before putting it in the garage. I’ll go through the list in the coming days and will post back my findings.
My brakes are shot at 1000 miles so I’ve got items to address along with this.
This is one of those issues to tell owners about. It’s so simple once you understand it. Before you understand you wonder why it’s so extremely difficult to change gears!
go check the cable down by the gas pedal. I adjusted mine before. You may find the adjustment got loose. Real easy To set at 1250 after it warms up.Old thread but mine is doing this. The idle is too high and it’s near impossible to change gears. After it warms up it’s at 1500 or even 1800 rpm. I have to turn the engine off to change gears. If I put it in neutral and rev it up to 3000-4000 sometimes the idle returns to 1250. Any ideas? Wasn’t there a post somewhere about cleaning something behind the dash for the throttle cable?