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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
For many, this may be the first time they have had Bead-Lock wheels on a vehicle, and not know they require periodic maintenance.

The stock KRX wheels have bead-lock rings that MUST be re-torqued on regular basis. On mine, the first check was at roughly 3 hours, and I found the ring bolts were very loose. The initial re-torquing was the most dramatic for looseness. But, I noticed a low tire after another 15 hours that allowed enough air loss to think I had a flat on the trail. The rings were loose, and allowed air to get past bead on the trail. Since 45 hours, the rings are staying close to value. Maybe they have seated, and just need to be checked during service?

The torque value and tightening sequence is in the manual.

While doing this task, its a good idea to go over the whole machine with the torque wrench. I found a several fasteners needed tightening!
 

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Thanks for the tip!
 

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As with any off-road toy, the constant vibration of the machine will inevitably loosen parts.
Make yourself a simple maintenance checklist to use every time before you head out again. You’ll be surprised at the stuff you find loosened up.
 

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Great reminder for folks. IIRC, the torque on these rings is higher than most other wheels on the market. My prior Tusk ones were 12-15 ft lbs. Can anyone post the actual Kawasaki spec? I remember seeing it was something like 40 ft lbs?
 

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Great reminder for folks. IIRC, the torque on these rings is higher than most other wheels on the market. My prior Tusk ones were 12-15 ft lbs. Can anyone post the actual Kawasaki spec? I remember seeing it was something like 40 ft lbs?
41 ft/lbs for the KRX wheels.

For my Tusk beadlocks it's 20 ft/lbs
 

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This is from the instructions that come with my Tusk beadlocks. This would likely apply to any beadlock wheels.
"Note: Re-torque the ring bolts every 50 miles until 200 miles is reached on the wheels."
 

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I just got my first "really good info" from the forum! I've lots of "pretty good info." ;-)

40 miles on my new KRX. Never would have thought to torque the bead lock rings. Went down to do it and got about 1/8 turn on every single one. At 41 Ft/lbs they still don't seem very tight--but I guess it's a steel thread mating to an aluminum thread so "tight" is a pretty relative term.

Thanks for the Heads Up!
 

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I just got my first "really good info" from the forum! I've lots of "pretty good info." ;-)

40 miles on my new KRX. Never would have thought to torque the bead lock rings. Went down to do it and got about 1/8 turn on every single one. At 41 Ft/lbs they still don't seem very tight--but I guess it's a steel thread mating to an aluminum thread so "tight" is a pretty relative term.

Thanks for the Heads Up!
It's not steel into aluminum. The bead lock bolts go into steel inserts.
If you think 41 isn't tight you should see the aftermarket. You can use a 1/4 ratchet and lightly tighten them and they'd be over-torqued.
 

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Thanks Outrun! That's good to know. I'll still use a torque wrench (duh) but with steel to steel I'm less concerned about over tightening! FWIW, I also checked the lug nuts. Got a bit on one of them but the rest were fine. I'll check everything again at 100 +/- miles.
 

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I did mine last night and mine were the same as yours (SailorGriz) - only about an eighth turn on each to get to 41 ft lbs. I thought it interesting we matched, must be good quality control on whoever does that. I’m at 80 miles and that was my first time checking them.
 

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aftermarket rim bead lock rings only get torqued to 15-20 foot pounds.
Yes, this thread is about the KRX OEM wheels.
Aftermarket bead lock wheels all come with their own torque specs. My Tusk wheels are spec'ed at 20 ft/lb.
 

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Anyone find lock ring spacers for the factory wheels so i can run tires with a thicker bead?
 

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Reno help me out here I may be asking a stupid question, which is totally possible. But this is just my backwards small Texas town math, if you put spacers on the factory rings therefore essentially shortening bolts wouldn’t you loose the thickness of bead you could run rather than gain?
 

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There’s a better thread here that explains how the spacers work. It’s about keeping the stress on the bolts uniform around their circumference. Without the spacer all the stress is on one side of the bolt because the tire bead is too thick.
 

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Interesting. Thanks Paul. My beadlock experience is limited at best, and I’m always up to learn. I’ll have to do a little searching and find that other thread. After reading this one, I’d be embarrassed to say how loose mine were. But, let’s just say it’s a wonder they were still holding air.
 
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