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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I know I'm asking a lot of questions, but I am doing searches to answer, but cannot find any answers. So, how many total watts of led's can I put on the krx without overloading the system? thanks
 

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2021 KRX Blue
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I’m in the middle of wiring mine. Removing the center dash reveals the accessory terminals. They are fused at 20 amps. 20 amps at 12.5 volts DC is 250 watts. So that’s your upper limit if that’s where you power your lights from.

This isn’t exactly what you asked but I noticed nobody has replied so that’s my contribution.

I’ll add the watts on LED lights are like tires that aren’t true to size. In my experience they are overstated. I use a DC ammeter to measure the actual amp draw and it never converts to the watts they claim. Reference:
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
From what I'm reading and correct me if I'm wrong. We have 250 watts of charging power from the stator. So, anything higher than that has to be coming from the battery. So, if we draw more than 250 watts of whatever for whatever, the charging system won't keep up. Also, we are sucking power for the stock lights, tail lights, and other stock functions. It's fine to run say 500 watts of light for a while but will eventually kill your battery as the stator can't keep up. So, more than likely, you could run about 225 watts of add-on lights and you would be ok, anymore than that, well, eventually your battery will die even while running. Now, I thought for those that want 500 watts of light, you could cycle them on for about an hour maybe more, then shut them off and allow the battery to fully charge while riding and using stock lights, then turn them on again. This is why vendors offer a 60 amp add-on alternator which is good for 720 watts continuous. any comments welcome.
 

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I have more to add since I got the amber fog light wired this afternoon. They advertise this as 240 watts:

Nilight - 18033C-A 12 Inch 240W Amber Lights Triple Row Spot & Flood Combo 30000LM Bar Driving Boat Led Off Road Lights for Trucks, 2 Years Warranty https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08NCXFC9...abc_QMCV5QGS5J4GJN3V4V32?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

240 watts would pull 20 amps at 12 volts. On my machine it pulls 4.8 amps at 12.5 vdc which is only 60 watts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
I wonder if their advertisements for the wattage are like some other sellers saying it puts out 200 watts or whatever of regular bulb light but at only 60 watts of power being that it's a led? Like my porch light is an 18 watt led claiming to put out like an 80-watt regular bulb. They also could be lying about the actual watts their lights are putting out. Like one seller on a headband light at 10,000 lumens at $19 and of course, we know that's a lie. We'll get to the gist of this sooner or later. Of course, if I could, I would like to put a 1000 watt bar LOL if I could.
 

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Watts is a power number. Lumens or foot candles is a measure of photon output. Efficiency in conversion is a big deal.. Chinese manufacturers, I've found take great license with numbers. Looking at two lightbars that are absolutely identical (but with a different name brand screened on them) will often show two wildly differing wattage values. Putting them on a lab power supply in the past, I have found the amp draw to be 25%-40% of advertised "output." That said, IIRC, a 240 watt bar I put on my pioneer is bright as all get out but draws ~65 watts. I'm totally happy with it for the price and really glad it doesn't draw 240 watts. YMMV.
 

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2020 Green KRX
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From what I'm reading and correct me if I'm wrong. We have 250 watts of charging power from the stator. So, anything higher than that has to be coming from the battery. So, if we draw more than 250 watts of whatever for whatever, the charging system won't keep up. Also, we are sucking power for the stock lights, tail lights, and other stock functions. It's fine to run say 500 watts of light for a while but will eventually kill your battery as the stator can't keep up. So, more than likely, you could run about 225 watts of add-on lights and you would be ok, anymore than that, well, eventually your battery will die even while running. Now, I thought for those that want 500 watts of light, you could cycle them on for about an hour maybe more, then shut them off and allow the battery to fully charge while riding and using stock lights, then turn them on again. This is why vendors offer a 60 amp add-on alternator which is good for 720 watts continuous. any comments welcome.
I can vouch for hitting the bottom of the battery lol that’s with a full blown sound system, pioneer head unit, subs, amp, rock lights, 42” led bar, reverse pod lights, low and high beams. I think I might be missing a couple things. It took a while to get there but the machine did not die, the worst I got was a headlight flicker. I shut a couple things off and it charged up fairly quickly. Granted in no situation would I ever run everything at once as it’s a bit extreme but I did want to test the limits. I also carry a 1000 CCA portable jump starter in my safety pack just in case me or friends get stranded. I plan to switch to a 40 series AGM battery with at least 80 AH. Stock is only 35.
 

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Curious if you remember what the dash gauge voltmeter was reading when you started to experience headlight flicker?
 

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If you get to the point your lights are going dim or start to flicker because of the draw on the battery ... your stator has been pi$$ed for a while leading up to that point!! You may do it once, you may do it 20 times but eventually you will have issues with the stator, wiring, connectors or regulator. Typically when the problem starts, it shows up in burnt connectors and/or what is diagnosed as a bad regulator. Then ends up with google searches and forum questions on how to test the stator!!
 

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If you get to the point your lights are going dim or start to flicker because of the draw on the battery ... your stator has been pi$$ed for a while leading up to that point!! You may do it once, you may do it 20 times but eventually you will have issues with the stator, wiring, connectors or regulator. Typically when the problem starts, it shows up in burnt connectors and/or what is diagnosed as a bad regulator. Then ends up with google searches and forum questions on how to test the stator!!
The circumstances I put it through wouldn’t be a common occurrence. Having everything on at once is never a necessity. But I did learn the limits. Since then it’s never happened.
 

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I learned how to test a stator 2200 miles from home, 4 days in on a 9 day trip. The day it happened, that night I purchased a new battery. Put both of them on a slow charge along with my jumper. They lasted maybe 2 hours only using what the machine required to operate. Took a break with cables hooked to another machine to get it back to where we were staying. Luckily my wife has her own machine so mine set and we were able to continue our adventures. The outcome was pull the motor just to change a stator (RZR).
 
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