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I mounted baja designs S2 pros in the bumper. I used a stainless spacer and bolted them into the threads in the frame. I got an oem headlight switch and a skene dimmer so I have running lights, medium, high and then 100% when the high beams are on. I'm really happy with how it came out. I like that they are well protected since we and end up pushing through a lot of brush around here. I didn't want a light bar getting hit by branches.
I like that, Baja Designs lights while pricey put out great light, in volume and clarity . I ahve a set of the cornering S1's that put up in the corner of the cage for some good side light and up until i saw your post was about to get their 10" light bar for the bumper I have. When driving in wood most any light will do but once getting out in some open spaces you can quickly outrun cheaper lights.
 

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2021 Trail Edition
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28 Posts
Sorry I don't have any good pics of the mount, and I just took it all apart getting ready to install my cagewrx roll cage.
 

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Nilight 42” curved bar with black housing from amazon. The ends are flood lights and the center is a spot beam. Over 1 year use with no issues using EMP brackets. All the light you need. Occasionally they have a sale and they drop to around $45.
I just installed this same setup and love it. But I haven't ridden with it at night yet.
 

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2020 Green KRX
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861 Posts
I just installed this same setup and love it. But I haven't ridden with it at night yet.
The difference Is amazing. I mean it’s so much light that you can shut the headlights off and it’s like they weren’t even making a difference in visibility.
 

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Either of you guys have the polycarbonate Kawasaki roof? Per my measurements, the roof mount clamps are exactly in the way of were the light bar mount should go.
 

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29 Posts
I have that roof, and the EMP mounts work just fine with it, though there isn't a lot of extra space. Here are some pics:

3775


3776


3777


3778
 

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I think the bigger issue is the expanding rubber "nuts" that EMP uses to attach the mounts. You need to drill out a 1/2-inch hole in the stock mounting holes on the frame. Then you insert a rubber plug with a nut imbedded inside. When you attach the frame, you have to make sure the EMP plate is solidly agains the frame so the rubber will expand tightly into the hole. If the EMP plate isn't flush against the frame, it may pull some of the rubber out of the hole. I made it work, but you need to be careful when installing it.
 

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2020 KRX
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1,025 Posts
I think the bigger issue is the expanding rubber "nuts" that EMP uses to attach the mounts. You need to drill out a 1/2-inch hole in the stock mounting holes on the frame. Then you insert a rubber plug with a nut imbedded inside. When you attach the frame, you have to make sure the EMP plate is solidly agains the frame so the rubber will expand tightly into the hole. If the EMP plate isn't flush against the frame, it may pull some of the rubber out of the hole. I made it work, but you need to be careful when installing it.
Why not replace those rubber nut mounts with rivnuts?
 

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Just to be clear, I had no issues with the EMP bolts; I'm just saying that if you aren't careful when you tighten them, some of the rubber may extrude from the hole, making it less secure.
 

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Here is the 42" curved that I run and it's so bright you could almost weld with it......very affordable too.

Draws 8 amps measured current.


 
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