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Discussion Starter #1
Just went on a ride in 60 degree weather temp maintained around 180-190 but when I turned it off the temp shoots up to 212-220. It will try to crank but fail. Had to leave fan running while it was off to get it to crank. Any ideas anyone? This happen twice in the same day.
 

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2020 KRX
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Never herd of anything. Pull out your cell phone and get some video of the problem while it’s happening so you can show the dealer.
 

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The temp will definitely spike when you turn it off since the coolant is not circulating, which is normal. I would definitely take a video like @BigParm said.
 

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Just got back from a trip where the same thing happened. Ran a pretty good distance non-stop and popped in a grocery when I got to town. I was inside maybe 10 minutes and when I came out it wouldn't start. Let it cool down a bit and it fired up. Temps never really got over 180 when running, but was reading 210-220 when stopped. Rest of the trip was fine.
 

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Just went on a ride in 60 degree weather temp maintained around 180-190 but when I turned it off the temp shoots up to 212-220. It will try to crank but fail. Had to leave fan running while it was off to get it to crank. Any ideas anyone? This happen twice in the same day.
The temp always rises when the engine is off because the fan isn't running. I would bet the problem is not the engine temp, but vapor lock if you have not replaced the rollover valve. Try opening your gas cap to relieve the pressure and it should start.
 

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Just went on a ride in 60 degree weather temp maintained around 180-190 but when I turned it off the temp shoots up to 212-220. It will try to crank but fail. Had to leave fan running while it was off to get it to crank. Any ideas anyone? This happen twice in the same day.
Won't crank or won't start? I don't know what you mean by try to crank but fail.
 

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Won't crank but starter engages and trys to crank?
Won't crank because starter doesnt engage?

Two veeeeery different symptoms.
 

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Won't crank but starter engages and trys to crank?
Won't crank because starter doesnt engage?

Two veeeeery different symptoms.
x2 what Remote said.. maybe it gets hot starts to crank but comes to a dead stop because the cylinder hydraulic locks? Any coolant in the oil?
 

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2020 Green KRX
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What everyone is talking about is called heat soak. I’ve never seen mine go over 200 when it’s off. Definitely a cooling system problem. I’m a little old school, before I ride, I turn it on for 5-10 minutes to get the engine warm, then after I ride I let it idle for about the same time. I’ve rode with it cold and I didn’t like the metallic and pingy sounds the engine made. The cooling down habit is back from my Honda turbo days. Don’t know if it works but jus seems healthy for an engine!
 

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The cooling down habit is back from my Honda turbo days. Don’t know if it works but jus seems healthy for an engine!
Same here, but with turbo diesel equipment. The thought of a turbo spinning at stupid hi rpms after a sudden shut off from hi rpms operation and no oil flow is unsettling to me. Always let it idle down after a hard run. Not really sure if is is as important to a NA gas engine tho, but it certainly cant hurt. Ever since joining this form I've kept a very close eye on the temp gage, especially during early break in. Never seen north of 198f. That's at hi alt and the associated reduction in heat transfer efficiency.

Overheating issues seem to ba a common theme across several UTV brands. A good friend who is an excellent mechanic has a Pioneer that would occasionally get so hot it melted a hole in the floor board. After a LOT of back and forth with Honda tech (my friend talks the talk) it was determined to be a lean mapping issue with his ECM that would happen periodically and out of nowhere. LOL he got the personal cell numbers from the tech advisor over that issue.
 

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Same here, but with turbo diesel equipment. The thought of a turbo spinning at stupid hi rpms after a sudden shut off from hi rpms operation and no oil flow is unsettling to me. Always let it idle down after a hard run. Not really sure if is is as important to a NA gas engine tho, but it certainly cant hurt. Ever since joining this form I've kept a very close eye on the temp gage, especially during early break in. Never seen north of 198f. That's at hi alt and the associated reduction in heat transfer efficiency.

Overheating issues seem to ba a common theme across several UTV brands. A good friend who is an excellent mechanic has a Pioneer that would occasionally get so hot it melted a hole in the floor board. After a LOT of back and forth with Honda tech (my friend talks the talk) it was determined to be a lean mapping issue with his ECM that would happen periodically and out of nowhere. LOL he got the personal cell numbers from the tech advisor over that issue.
That’s happened to several of the pioneer guys.
 

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It cranks For 1-2 seconds and dies
Its hard to help with this description without experiencing it first hand so here is
It cranks For 1-2 seconds and dies
Its hard to help with this description without experiencing it first hand so here is my take on a description of some common words used..so maybe we can nail down the meaning of the terms used to help you out!
Crank= starter is engaged rotating the engine..
slow to crank= starter won't rotate the engine fast enough to start
Dies= engine is running and suddenly stops running
Spins= starter spins or continues to rotate the engine but won't start.
Engage= starter won't turn the engine starter spins or runs with key but isn't rotating the engine
Dead= nothing happens when you turn the key
Start= the moment the starts to run on its own
Binds= starter engaged and turning engine over the engine binds or suddenly stops then locks up starter. a Humming or buzzing sound will occur from the starter
Bad spot= Starter only spins and won't engage the ring gear to rotate the engine or hits the bad spot part way through the engine rotation and may hear a clunking sound or free wheel spin of starter only..
Im may have missed a few but the better the description of the complaint from the operator the easier it is to trouble shoot..
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Its hard to help with this description without experiencing it first hand so here is

Its hard to help with this description without experiencing it first hand so here is my take on a description of some common words used..so maybe we can nail down the meaning of the terms used to help you out!
Crank= starter is engaged rotating the engine..
slow to crank= starter won't rotate the engine fast enough to start
Dies= engine is running and suddenly stops running
Spins= starter spins or continues to rotate the engine but won't start.
Engage= starter won't turn the engine starter spins or runs with key but isn't rotating the engine
Dead= nothing happens when you turn the key
Start= the moment the starts to run on its own
Binds= starter engaged and turning engine over the engine binds or suddenly stops then locks up starter. a Humming or buzzing sound will occur from the starter
Bad spot= Starter only spins and won't engage the ring gear to rotate the engine or hits the bad spot part way through the engine rotation and may hear a clunking sound or free wheel spin of starter only..
Im may have missed a few but the better the description of the complaint from the operator the easier it is to trouble shoot..
Lets try this. 1st when the key is turned the starter engages and and rotates engine. Then the spark plug ignites the fuel and the engine runs for a couple of seconds before it quits. I will try to recreate the scenario today to see if I can video it. That may help the most.
 

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Great.. I would try check the basics.. Ignition fuse, relay, fuel pump relay, and check for any service codes will give you a better idea of trouble shooting.
here is procedure to check for trouble codes..
1546

OWhen a problem occurs with the DFI system and ignition
system, the yellow engine warning indicator light (LED) [A] goes on.
NOTE
OUse a fully charged battery when conducting self-diagnosis. Otherwise, the light (LED) does not go on.
• Push the lower button [A] to display the odometer.
®
®
IC15559B G
IC15560B G
IC15559B G
I C15561B G
1547

Self-Diagnosis
• Push the upper button [A] for more than two seconds.
• The service code is displayed on the LCD by the num-
ber of two digits.
• Any of the following procedures ends self-diagnosis. OWhen the service code is displayed on the LCD, push the
upper button for more than two seconds. OWhen the ignition switch is turned off.
®
FUEL SYSTEM (DFI) 3-41
IC15562B G
1548

3-42 FUEL SYSTEM (DFI) Self-Diagnosis
Self-Diagnosis Flow Chart
Turn the ignition switch off.
Turn the ignition switch on.
Display the odometer and push the upper button for more than two seconds to start the self-diagnosis mode.
The service code(s) is displayed on the LCD (Liquid Crystal Display).
Turn the ignition switch off.
Locate the problem with the service code table and inspect and repair DFI or ignition system according to inspection procedure on all the service codes.
Turn the ignition switch on.
Make sure the yellow engine warning indicator light (LED) goes off. OK
Run the engine for several minutes at idling and run the vehicle at 30 km/h (18 mph) or above in order to confirm no problem.
OK
( _ _ _ E _ N o_ _ _ )
NG
NG
IC15563B F
1549

Self-Diagnosis
Service Code Reading
OThe service code(s) is displayed on the LCD by two-digit number or a set of a number and an al- phabet.
OWhen there are a number of problems, all the service codes can be stored and the display will begin starting from the lowest number service code in the numerical order.
OThen after completing all codes, the display is repeated until the ignition switch is turned off or upper button is pushed for more than two seconds.
OFor example, if three problems occurred in the order of 56, 13, 31, the service codes are displayed (each two seconds) from the lowest number in the order listed as shown below. (13-+31-+56)-+(13-+31-+56)-+· · ·(repeated)
Olf there is no problem or when the repair has been done, yellow engine warning indicator light (LED) goes off and the service code is not displayed.
Service Code Erasing
OWhen repair has been done, yellow engine warning indicator light {LED) goes off and the service codes are not displayed.
*The service codes stored in memory of the ECU can be erased using the Kawasaki Diagnostic System.
Service Code Table
Service Codes
11
12
13
14
18
21 24
25
27 31 33 39 46 49 51
DTC
(Diagnostic Problems
Trouble Code)
P0120
P0121
P0122 Throttle position sensor malfunction, wiring open or short P0220
P0223
P0105
P0106 Intake air pressure sensor malfunction, wiring open or short P0107
P0110
P0112
P0115
P0117
P2120
P2121
P2123 Accelerator position sensor malfunction, wiring open or short P2125
P2128
P0335 Crankshaft sensor malfunction, wiring open or short
P2158 Speed sensor malfunction, wiring open or short
P0914
P0917
P0500 Ring gear rotation sensor malfunction, wiring open or short C0064 Vehicle-down sensor malfunction, wiring open or short P0132 Oxygen sensor inactivation, wiring short
U0001 ECU communication error
P0627 Fuel pump relay malfunction, relay is stuck .
P2119 Return spring malfunction
P0351 Ignition coil #1 malfunction, wiring open or short
Intake air temperature sensor malfunction, wiring open or short
Water temperature sensor malfunction, wiring open or short
Gear position sensor malfunction, wiring open or short
FUEL SYSTEM (DFI) 3-43
1550

3-44 FUEL SYSTEM (DFI) Self-Diagnosis
Service Codes
OTC {Diagnostic Trouble Code)
Problems
Ignition coil #2 malfunction, wiring open or short Radiator fan relay malfunction, wiring open or short ETV actuator malfunction, wiring open or short
Oxygen sensor heater malfunction, wiring open or short Battery monitor voltage is low
ECU/ETV circuit malfunction, wiring open or short 2WD/4WD/DIFF-LOCK actuator malfunction, wiring open or short Purge valve malfunction, wi
 
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