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I am still getting my buggy ready for 2023, mentioned all the stuff I plan to do on several threads.. I bought my 2020 KRX 1000 used about 6-8 months ago with 3200 ish miles in…

Today, I dug into the clutch, installed some FA rear shock braces, and FA Uni Air Filter.

Really glad I inspected the clutch. If has a after market clutch, one of the Cir Clips was missing, have a bit of grooving. I cleaned them up, then I took some 500grit wet sand paper to them. To remove some of the grooving and clean them up. I will run these until the JBS clutch comes in, and then I will keep these as spares.

Hmmm… the pictures are not showing up in the order I wanted… so they are out of order.







 

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2021 Kawasaki KRX 1000eS
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I most certainly would buy eight new snap rings and replace the old ones. One can see that the snap ring in the upper right in the photo has been spread open too far and will not be able to retain the pin. You are lucky that the pin that was missing a snap ring did not come out and do some major damage. Snap rings have a flat side and a somewhat convex side. To ensure maximum retention capability of the snap ring make sure the flat side of the snap ring faces outward towards the end of the pin. During installation, spread the snap rings just far enough to go over the diameter of the end of the pin and seat into the grooves in the pin. They should fit tight enough in the grooves so that it is difficult to rotate the snap rings in the pin grooves with your fingers after installation. If not, they have been spread too far open during installation and are junk.
 
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I most certainly would buy eight new snap rings and replace the old ones. One can see that the snap ring in the upper right in the photo has been spread open too far and will not be able to retain the pin. You are lucky that the pin that was missing a snap ring did not come out and do some major damage. Snap rings have a flat side and a somewhat convex side. To ensure maximum retention capability of the snap ring make sure the flat side of the snap ring faces outward towards the end of the pin. During installation, spread the snap rings just far enough to go over the diameter of the end of the pin and seat into the grooves in the pin. They should fit tight enough in the grooves so that it is difficult to rotate the snap rings in the pin grooves with your fingers after installation. If not, they have been spread too far open during installation and are junk.
I am glad you mentioned the flat side, I was aware of that, however some may not have been aware.
 

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I would definitely replace those clutch weights and not reuse them. Kawasaki went with a different design for the newer models. Mine is a 21 model and still had the old style weights. Kawasaki replaced them for free even with the car being out of warranty.
 

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I was extremely surprised at the low quality of the snap rings when I pulled my weights down. 4 of them did not snap back to their normal size after removed. Not sure if the heat from the weights re-tempered. So I replaced them all While I had it open.
 

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I was extremely surprised at the low quality of the snap rings when I pulled my weights down. 4 of them did not snap back to their normal size after removed. Not sure if the heat from the weights re-tempered. So I replaced them all While I had it open.
Smart!
 

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There’s a thread here where someone posted a link to a huge bag of snap rings at McMaster-Carr. I bought one.
 

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I use 13mm stainless steel spiral rings from McMaster Carr. Part number 92347A110 they have more than double the side load capacity of the standard 13mm external snap rings and they do not require external snap ring pliers to remove them or install them. I use a small flat screwdriver to do so. I like the stainless-steel rings due to the corrosion resistance as regular carbon steel rings can develop rust on them because of moisture and a rusted retaining ring becomes weak from rust pitting and there is a greater chance of retaining ring failure.
 

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I use 13mm stainless steel spiral rings from McMaster Carr. Part number 92347A110 they have more than double the side load capacity of the standard 13mm external snap rings and they do not require external snap ring pliers to remove them or install them. I use a small flat screwdriver to do so. I like the stainless-steel rings due to the corrosion resistance as regular carbon steel rings can develop rust on them because of moisture and a rusted retaining ring becomes weak from rust pitting and there is a greater chance of retaining ring failure.
Posting the link. Thanks for the find!
 

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Posting the link. Thanks for the find!
I been using them for a long time with zero issues in many applications.
Thanks for posting the link Paul as it might be helpful for some.
 

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Has anyone serviced the secondary clutch yet? I've asked before. There's nothing in the service manual. On the Yamaha machines its a 1600 mile interval. Looking at the Kawasaki clutch, its the same design. I find it hard to believe that no one is servicing the secondary on the KRX. What about the guys over 5000 miles?
 

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Has anyone serviced the secondary clutch yet? I've asked before. There's nothing in the service manual. On the Yamaha machines its a 1600 mile interval. Looking at the Kawasaki clutch, its the same design. I find it hard to believe that no one is servicing the secondary on the KRX. What about the guys over 5000 miles?
I have. I did it at the first 1500 miles. One needs to relubricate the unit using a moly fortified grease. Also, you need to mark each sheave before they are separated from one another so that they are put back together the way they were because the secondary sheaves are balanced from the factory as an assembly. It is also handy to have access to an Arbor Press in order to do the service safely or a section of 1/2 inch thread stock with a U-shaped spring holder along with nuts and large washers to apply force to the spring holder so that the snap ring can be removed. I could not find the service schedule for the secondary sheaves, so I just took a stab at the milage. Of course, if the clutch system has been subject to water and or excessive dust it probably needs to be serviced earlier. My driven pulley needed to be serviced. One can also phase the two sheaves together as stated in the shop manual. I might also add that the bolt that retains the driven pulley assembly is left hand thread.
 

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Here is an illustration of the factory driven pulley spring compressor. One could make something like this using threaded stock and other hardware if they did not have access to an arbor press.
 

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I retrieved some of my spare stainless steel spiral rings out of my tool bag today that I carry in my car to show somewhat of a comparison between the OEM 13mm external snap rings and the full circle spiral rings that I use to retain the clutch pins in my car.
 
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Went to my local Ace Hardware where they have a large assortment of Hillman hardware. Look in the bin for 13mm circlip, they have 12 and 14mm no13, wtf. I went with a 1/2 circlip, they fit nice and tight, but what's up with no 13mm!
 

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13mm equates to .511 and change. 1/2 equates to .500. You will be safe using the 1/2 snap rings.
 
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