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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anyone running these? I have been eyeballing them since I saw a 27" in person a few years ago, the smaller sizes are sold as Carlisle Versa trail. I saw the 33x10R15 on sale today for $153 each and couldn't resist. DOT approved, claimed 33.4 tall, 44 lbs, 8ply, 805 lbs load rating, 3/4 deep tread and made in the USA. The V3 was just released in July it appears so there isn't much info out on them. I was down to the XTR370 in 33 or the Roxxzilla in a 35 but at this price and actually in stock I figured it can't hurt to give these a try. If they suck I'll use them as a street tire and get some Roxxzillas.

 

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Looks like a Pro Armor or MRT went on a diet. I would imagine that that will be a decent all around tire though. That price is great also.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Looks like a Pro Armor or MRT went on a diet. I would imagine that that will be a decent all around tire though. That price is great also.
Kinda what I thought, a crawler with wider lug spacing. I'm hoping the specs are correct and they are a little over 33 tall, that would put them about the same as most 35's
 

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It will be interesting to hear what you think about them. ITP typically makes a pretty decent tire, and $153 per tire is a GREAT price.
 

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Those look like pretty nice. Post some photos when you get them installed if you don't mind.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Looks more like my 9.5” wide RT320 in terms of width.

You throw one on a scale?
Not yet, but I will.
Those look like pretty nice. Post some photos when you get them installed if you don't mind.
Will do.

I mounted one up tonight. I couldn't wait to see if the profile was going to flatting out, It didn't. They have about the same profile as Terrabite's. Not horrible but I generally like a flat profile. They are 32.5 tall @ 26 psi.


 

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I agree. 26 PSI is way too high. I run my KM3's around 10 psi.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
LOL, no shit. I don't plan on running them at 26 psi, probably 8 or 9. I leave new tires at max psi until they will get used, them I'll drop to next to nothing and drive around the field awhile to break in the sidewalls then air up to a usable pressure. Tires require a break in, and just like engines, everyone has there own methods.
 

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LOL, no shit. I don't plan on running them at 26 psi, probably 8 or 9. I leave new tires at max psi until they will get used, them I'll drop to next to nothing and drive around the field awhile to break in the sidewalls then air up to a usable pressure. Tires require a break in, and just like engines, everyone has there own methods.
Dude, mind expanding on that a little more? Never herd of that before. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
All tires require break in, just google it. My method come from the crawler days, new tires suck crawling and stickies wear to fast to allow it happen naturally. One of the tricks was to pull the valve stems and drive around until they get enough heat into them to smell them. I dont go that far but getting the sidewalls loosened up some helps a lot. Some tires will even gain a noticeable amount of height. Once a sidewall is broken in you will get just as much flex out of it at higher pressure and not need to air down as much for the same contact patch resulting in higher clearance. No one wants to run a new tire at a comp, worn tires will work better.
 

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I know people that do that also. My buddy always adds 50 psi to his utv tires and lets them sit for a few days before using them. Most I have tried was 30 on my last 32's and they always performed well. I truly don't have any idea if it actually made a difference or not though.
 

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All tires require break in, just google it. My method come from the crawler days, new tires suck crawling and stickies wear to fast to allow it happen naturally. One of the tricks was to pull the valve stems and drive around until they get enough heat into them to smell them. I dont go that far but getting the sidewalls loosened up some helps a lot. Some tires will even gain a noticeable amount of height. Once a sidewall is broken in you will get just as much flex out of it at higher pressure and not need to air down as much for the same contact patch resulting in higher clearance. No one wants to run a new tire at a comp, worn tires will work better.
I am worried now that I didn’t break my tires in. Before I replace the air filter and do an oil change, what is the correct “break-in” procedure for the new oil, oil filter, and air filter?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·

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LOL, no shit. I don't plan on running them at 26 psi, probably 8 or 9. I leave new tires at max psi until they will get used, them I'll drop to next to nothing and drive around the field awhile to break in the sidewalls then air up to a usable pressure. Tires require a break in, and just like engines, everyone has there own methods.
Perhaps you should have noted that as well in your previous post. Nobody cares what a tire measures at extreme pressures, and yes, there are some who think the max psi shown on the sidewall, (typically meant for seating the bead) is what they should be running at.
Anyhow, beyond all that, wow, that's a short 33" tire. It's always good to see people measure and post what different tires actually measure, compared to what is stamped on them. Helps to avoid expensive surprises when tire shopping.
I know the proper way of measuring is with the tire not being mounted on the machine, with no weight on it. My thoughts about that are also that nobody cares about that measurement either. We all want to know what it is, where it matters. That's on the machine, ready to hit the trails, just like you gave us in your last post. (y)
 

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How can you size a tire for “on the car” when every car weighs different? Tire PSI also makes a bigger difference with the weight of the car on it. Yeah thats what people would like, but makes no sense and why its not used. Too many variables.
 
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