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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have the rear and front bumper lights- The K glo lights. Both of the switches have failed and wont click on or off - feels like something bending inside and they no longer "click"- Regardless, my dealer doesnt see them listed and has to order the entire wire harness - which Im not doing - It is a strange rocker switch configuration with no mfr listed on it - it is an Off-On-On switch (all the way down is off - middle position is white lights and all the way up is green lights) with 6 pins on the back - i CANNOT find a rocker switch to swap out anywhere - anyone else found one or has a fix to operate both the white and green lights?
 

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2021 Trail Edition, RCOR weights, Shock Therapy, CageWRX cage, 31"x10.50-15LT General Grabber X3's
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Have you looked at trying just a standard on-off-on rocker? Same concept just different order. Just a thought
I have just can’t find it in the same 6 pin to plug into harness- it looks like I’ll have to cut the harness and rewire . I’m trying to avoid that but kawi used a not common switch and it’s cheap quality- both died within a week of each other ….. was hoping for a Simple fix.
 

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I have just can’t find it in the same 6 pin to plug into harness- it looks like I’ll have to cut the harness and rewire . I’m trying to avoid that but kawi used a not common switch and it’s cheap quality- both died within a week of each other ….. was hoping for a Simple fix.
are the switches dying because they have too much current going through them? just a thought, if it fries the new aftermarket switches maybe instead run it through two relays and have the relays control the power to the lights. sometimes if a circuit draws enough constant power- say on a circuit that has a 20 amp rated switch it constantly draws 18 amps might spec out ok but it's near the edge of the switches capacity. relays can take the load off the switch.
 

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My machine had Alternator & lighting installed.
I wasn't impressed with their method of powering everything off the 2 posts from the ignition.

Relays & fuse panel is what I did.
Also located winch contactor to port side of glove box.
Tapped off that to 30 amp relay to power fuse panel, triggered from ignition.
Added additional relays for future use.
Quality of many switches available does suk.
Gotta figure water & vib. will take it's toll so make things as Murphy proof as possible & easily accessible.
Be sure to keep leads secured away from drive shaft...
Before closing it all up, clamp an amp probe around leads to get an idea what each circuit draws.


 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
are the switches dying because they have too much current going through them? just a thought, if it fries the new aftermarket switches maybe instead run it through two relays and have the relays control the power to the lights. sometimes if a circuit draws enough constant power- say on a circuit that has a 20 amp rated switch it constantly draws 18 amps might spec out ok but it's near the edge of the switches capacity. relays can take the load off the switch.
It feels like a mechanical malfunction of the switch- neither one are “clicking” on- like a tab in the switch is broken….. they arent "rocking" forward enough - The actuator feels like it bending instead of hearing and feeling a physical click. Hard to explain- just a cheap switch - lol. It is a 20 amp switch but its just switching an 8" led bar so its not drawing to much...4-5 amps......I think imma call Kawi......the dang install kit was pricy.....i can cut the plug on the wiring harness and put push terminals on the wires and use a different switch I guess as well.
 

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2021 Trail Edition, RCOR weights, Shock Therapy, CageWRX cage, 31"x10.50-15LT General Grabber X3's
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It feels like a mechanical malfunction of the switch- neither one are “clicking” on- like a tab in the switch is broken….. they arent "rocking" forward enough - The actuator feels like it bending instead of hearing and feeling a physical click. Hard to explain- just a cheap switch - lol. It is a 20 amp switch but its just switching an 8" led bar so its not drawing to much...4-5 amps......I think imma call Kawi......the dang install kit was pricy.....i can cut the plug on the wiring harness and put push terminals on the wires and use a different switch I guess as well.
Cheap rocker switches is the reason I'm currently rewiring my dash. I've had multiple failures with these crappy Nilight brand: Amazon.com, and some rockers that O'reilly's sells. That is why I'm switching all my switches to a latching pushbutton style:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07V3Y5ZBX?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details

It's still a work in progress. A friend of mine made this new dash plate with his 3d printer, this is v1.0 that we're testing out:
 

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1911:
Those are less apt to be operated unknowingly & the install looks clean
SPST only & less than std. rocker 20A.
 

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2021 Trail Edition, RCOR weights, Shock Therapy, CageWRX cage, 31"x10.50-15LT General Grabber X3's
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1911:
Those are less apt to be operated unknowingly & the install looks clean
SPST only & less than std. rocker 20A.
Yea I know, but I'm not powering anything even close to 10A. My biggest draw is 8A from my 42in front light bar, and it's on its own switch. I have a 40A relay that powers the fuse block all of my accessories run off of. It's mounted in the back of what's left of the cubby behind the plate.
 

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I used that same toggle switch to break the power to the winch rocker so attempts at the cup holder cannot retract the winch! Good switch!
I used 19mm, not 16mm.

This thread sparked a thought! Now I know how I'm doing my next project. Thanks for the spark. More on this later, doesn't matter now.
 

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If you still need this, I think I have a switch

I have the rear and front bumper lights- The K glo lights. Both of the switches have failed and wont click on or off - feels like something bending inside and they no longer "click"- Regardless, my dealer doesnt see them listed and has to order the entire wire harness - which Im not doing - It is a strange rocker switch configuration with no mfr listed on it - it is an Off-On-On switch (all the way down is off - middle position is white lights and all the way up is green lights) with 6 pins on the back - i CANNOT find a rocker switch to swap out anywhere - anyone else found one or has a fix to operate both the white and green lights?
 
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