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Discussion Starter #41
Question for all you folks with the click6 - can you get the retractors to lock? Like if you pull the seat belt all the way out on a car and then let it ratchet back? I like retractable for casual stuff, but when it's go time, I'd like to be well locked in.

Also, does anyone (with racing experience) have any thoughts about running harnesses on the stock ROPS? Don't wanna get ma mellon squished.
Good question. I have no idea. Guess I'll have to try it and see. I doubt it, but that would be pretty cool if it does.
 

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Maybe I’m missing something but what would be the point in a harness that doesn’t lock in with excess g-forces. The way a seatbelt does.
 

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Maybe I’m missing something but what would be the point in a harness that doesn’t lock in with excess g-forces. The way a seatbelt does.
Well, you're only missing it by a little bit.

I'm certain the retractors lock if you're in an accident - otherwise they'd get the pants sued off of them by all the dead peoples families. Minimally, the leg straps have no retractors and are just set in place.

BUT, legit 5+ point harnesses and racing buckets are way more than just protective. Getting in a racing bucket and yanking the straps down super tight is absolutely awesome - you don't move an inch when hitting bumps or experiencing lots of g's in any direction. The car is waaaaaay more controllable, approximately the same difference in control going from vinyl bench seat with no seat belts to single seat with a seat belt. It's a massive advantage that gets even larger when arm and leg straps are used. Further, when you have a well built and designed cage, it's vital to prevent you from smashing your head off the tubes.

But, there's a catch - and thus my questions - to safely run buckets and harnesses, your cage CANNOT deform into the passenger compartment. You're completely locked in, so if cage comes down on you, your brain is done for, squished watermelon style.

By way of retracting upper, IMMI may be looking out for the safety of those in stock cages - in the car community, retractable harnesses are common for DOT compliance too and are designed to essentially stop forward movement while allowing lateral movement towards the interior of the compartment - picture bending through the unbelted portion of the triangle that a standard 3-pt belt creates (if sitting in drivers seat, bending like you're changing the radio station) . Basically, if your top half can bend over to the side and the cage (or roof) comes down in a rollover, you just bend at the waist. If you're locked in, you're dead.
 

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Great explanation thank you!
 
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Discussion Starter #48
My Click 6 has saved me before..........yes they lock when needed!
But, the question is, can you manually lock them by pulling them all the way out like you can with the seatbelt in your car? If you were going to go for a hard rip and wanted to lock yourself down, can this be done with the Click 6? I've never pulled mine all the way out to see if it ratchets back in. For some reason I doubt it will do it but I'll have to try it and see.
 

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But, the question is, can you manually lock them by pulling them all the way out like you can with the seatbelt in your car? If you were going to go for a hard rip and wanted to lock yourself down, can this be done with the Click 6? I've never pulled mine all the way out to see if it ratchets back in. For some reason I doubt it will do it but I'll have to try it and see.
D ranged just did a video regarding aftermarket high end aftermarket seats.click six is not catable w aftermarket seats
 

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Discussion Starter #50
Question for all you folks with the click6 - can you get the retractors to lock? Like if you pull the seat belt all the way out on a car and then let it ratchet back? I like retractable for casual stuff, but when it's go time, I'd like to be well locked in.

Also, does anyone (with racing experience) have any thoughts about running harnesses on the stock ROPS? Don't wanna get ma mellon squished.
So I tried it last night. As I suspected it doesn't work, which is too bad. I could see the value of being able to lock it down in certain situations.
 

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So I tried it last night. As I suspected it doesn't work, which is too bad. I could see the value of being able to lock it down in certain situations.
Whomp Whomp. Thanks for trying though, I appreciate that.

Knowing what you know, would you go for the ease of the click 6 or the lock-down-ability or a traditional harness? What's your riding style/terrain?
 

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Discussion Starter #52
Whomp Whomp. Thanks for trying though, I appreciate that.

Knowing what you know, would you go for the ease of the click 6 or the lock-down-ability or a traditional harness? What's your riding style/terrain?
Rough, rocky trails and rock crawling. For me (as well as the boss) I will take the Click 6 all day long over the lock down of a traditional harness. Everyone I know with a regular harness rides with it fairly loose for comfort. An improperly adjusted harness is not a safe way to ride and the Click 6 lets you be comfortable and safe. If I was into high speed riding/racing, and my wife wasn't with me, I would go with the traditional, lock me into place harness.
If something is comfortable when worn properly, folks will wear it properly. If it's not comfortable when worn properly, it will either be worn improperly or not at all.
 

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~30 mph I came over a sharp drop off in the dunes and stuffed it into a valley berm witches eye. Click 6 locked up instantly and we were thrown forward. Bruised neck and shoulders and sore for 12 hours. But with a stock belt, 3 point, I would of been in a world of hurt. I like the secure feeling of traditional 4 point, but not being locked in where you can't even reach for gloves or anything. Love my Click 6, field proven. People forget basic physics. Twice the strap support means 1/2 the load is going into your body where the harness lays and contact point is.
 

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Question for all you folks with the click6 - can you get the retractors to lock? Like if you pull the seat belt all the way out on a car and then let it ratchet back? I like retractable for casual stuff, but when it's go time, I'd like to be well locked in.

Also, does anyone (with racing experience) have any thoughts about running harnesses on the stock ROPS? Don't wanna get ma mellon squished.
They lock you down with any sudden movement or hard stop.... like when you tip over... don't ask me how I know this...🤫
 

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Well, you're only missing it by a little bit.

I'm certain the retractors lock if you're in an accident - otherwise they'd get the pants sued off of them by all the dead peoples families. Minimally, the leg straps have no retractors and are just set in place.

BUT, legit 5+ point harnesses and racing buckets are way more than just protective. Getting in a racing bucket and yanking the straps down super tight is absolutely awesome - you don't move an inch when hitting bumps or experiencing lots of g's in any direction. The car is waaaaaay more controllable, approximately the same difference in control going from vinyl bench seat with no seat belts to single seat with a seat belt. It's a massive advantage that gets even larger when arm and leg straps are used. Further, when you have a well built and designed cage, it's vital to prevent you from smashing your head off the tubes.

But, there's a catch - and thus my questions - to safely run buckets and harnesses, your cage CANNOT deform into the passenger compartment. You're completely locked in, so if cage comes down on you, your brain is done for, squished watermelon style.

By way of retracting upper, IMMI may be looking out for the safety of those in stock cages - in the car community, retractable harnesses are common for DOT compliance too and are designed to essentially stop forward movement while allowing lateral movement towards the interior of the compartment - picture bending through the unbelted portion of the triangle that a standard 3-pt belt creates (if sitting in drivers seat, bending like you're changing the radio station) . Basically, if your top half can bend over to the side and the cage (or roof) comes down in a rollover, you just bend at the waist. If you're locked in, you're dead.
Okay, the lower portion doesn't move so 4 points are set as tight as you want them all the time, just depends on where your seat is locked in, only the top let's you move around.
This was the 1st mod I did when I got mine last July because I wanted to be locked in in case of a rollover. These things work really good. Loosening up the lower 4 points gets to be tedious, especially once they get gunked up. For the most part the detractors work good, until the get mucked up. I've had mine bind a couple of times but you can get them back in place if you pull straight up on the retractor.
 

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~30 mph I came over a sharp drop off in the dunes and stuffed it into a valley berm witches eye. Click 6 locked up instantly and we were thrown forward. Bruised neck and shoulders and sore for 12 hours. But with a stock belt, 3 point, I would of been in a world of hurt. I like the secure feeling of traditional 4 point, but not being locked in where you can't even reach for gloves or anything. Love my Click 6, field proven. People forget basic physics. Twice the strap support means 1/2 the load is going into your body where the harness lays and contact point is.
Ya know, while it's the best user recommendation to get, sorry you stuffed it man!
 

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Has anyone (@BobX2) tried giving them a good yank to see if you can 'lock' them? In autocross, those without harnesses will frequently move the seat all the way back, yank the belt to lock it, then move the seat forward while the belt's under tension to get 'locked in'.
 

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Has anyone (@BobX2) tried giving them a good yank to see if you can 'lock' them? In autocross, those without harnesses will frequently move the seat all the way back, yank the belt to lock it, then move the seat forward while the belt's under tension to get 'locked in'.
That will work about half the time..
 

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Discussion Starter #60
Has anyone (@BobX2) tried giving them a good yank to see if you can 'lock' them? In autocross, those without harnesses will frequently move the seat all the way back, yank the belt to lock it, then move the seat forward while the belt's under tension to get 'locked in'.
You can easily yank them and lock them up. Before installing, just tipping towards their side locks them up, so you don't even have to pull on them to lock them up if you tip over on your side.
 
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