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so list for us the accessories you have installed? so $500 sounds like about 4hrs of labor charges to remove and re-install the accessories.....unfortunately i think you might be stuck there unless you remove them yourself and return it to exactly stock appearance.... but really what accessories take 2 hrs to remove then 2 hrs to re-install that are genuine Kawasaki that prohibit access to the bed plastics being removed? the engine and trans come out through the rear so the only ones i can think of is the rear tailgate box and maybe a rear windshield....if you have a aftermarket skid plate under the rig that might take quite a bit to remove, but i'm not convinced it would need to be removed.

now, as to the $1500 tear down estimate... that's pretty standard procedure in the automotive world when a component failure is suspect due to "abuse or outside influence". these machines aren't exactly commuter cars. they live a hard life- the average passenger vehicle would disintegrate with what these machines can take as far as abuse. i don't know if the Kawi computer has any "black box" built in, but if it does, and they can tell you say drove in low range on the rev-limiter for 20 miles or some other form of stupidity then they may have just cause to void the warranty. if you installed a "tune" that did away with the governed speed limiter or rev limiter and they can prove it then you also might be stuck.

if they do decide that they aren't going to cover it under warranty, make sure to ask for a complete return of ALL the old parts. you have a right to them IF you ask for them before the work begins- so make sure to ask for the old parts back. also ask if you can take an oil sample to send out for analysis- see if you can collect that yourself when they start the tear-down. just give some lame excuse but get it.
 

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So, as it stands Kawasaki wants me to agree to an invoice charge of $1500 from the dealer in case they discover this is not a warranty issue. I did nothing wrong so i shouldn't worry, but i am not getting a warm fuzzy from this whole ordeal. They also are charging me to remove any Kawasaki accessories that were not installed by the factory to gain access to the engine ($500). Unfortunately, I just have a feeling this is going to turn into a battle. I am for sure having my regrets for this purchase.
So, as it stands Kawasaki wants me to agree to an invoice charge of $1500 from the dealer in case they discover this is not a warranty issue. I did nothing wrong so i shouldn't worry, but i am not getting a warm fuzzy from this whole ordeal. They also are charging me to remove any Kawasaki accessories that were not installed by the factory to gain access to the engine ($500). Unfortunately, I just have a feeling this is going to turn into a battle. I am for sure having my regrets for this purchase.
What I would do is call kawasaki myself n talk too them DO NOT TRUST THE DEALERSHIP!!! And when u talk too kawasaki talk to them like you would want to be talked too just saying. get their name n just talk to them. 1st get the work order # from ur dealer n get as much info u can from ur dealer. Kawasaki may know nothing about this problem that u r having. Just be honest with everything and do alot of writing n info. Kill them with sweetness n u will get somewhere. The dealer is only looking at how much they can make off of u. I just wonder if Kawasaki even knows whats going on yet? I would make phone calls quick to dealer get everything u can n then get with Kawasaki A.S.A.P !!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
What I would do is call kawasaki myself n talk too them DO NOT TRUST THE DEALERSHIP!!! And when u talk too kawasaki talk to them like you would want to be talked too just saying. get their name n just talk to them. 1st get the work order # from ur dealer n get as much info u can from ur dealer. Kawasaki may know nothing about this problem that u r having. Just be honest with everything and do alot of writing n info. Kill them with sweetness n u will get somewhere. The dealer is only looking at how much they can make off of u. I just wonder if Kawasaki even knows whats going on yet? I would make phone calls quick to dealer get everything u can n then get with Kawasaki A.S.A.P !!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
I am now 7 weeks without my KRX. #2 cylinder and piston are toast, along with head and valve damage which Kawasaki has all of this information from the dealer. They will not replace the engine, only rebuild it! They will not return my calls, I only get emails from someone who has no idea what a side by side even is. So I will eventually be the not so proud owner of a $25,000.00 KRX with 220 miles and a "'rebuilt" motor. How's that for customer service!
 

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I am now 7 weeks without my KRX. #2 cylinder and piston are toast, along with head and valve damage which Kawasaki has all of this information from the dealer. They will not replace the engine, only rebuild it! They will not return my calls, I only get emails from someone who has no idea what a side by side even is. So I will eventually be the not so proud owner of a $25,000.00 KRX with 220 miles and a "'rebuilt" motor. How's that for customer service!
7 weeks is too long. Not only what I have made them reimburse me for loss of use, but I would be calling their regional Kawasaki rep.
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
7 weeks is too long. Not only what I have made them reimburse me for loss of use, but I would be calling their regional Kawasaki rep.
Funny, the area rep will not return my calls either. I wish I knew where he lived! I consulted an attorney he said to push a buy back would be very costly, and could not guarantee a win. The laws are different with off road vehicles. Trust me I have exhausted evrey avenue here.They just won't man up and do the right thing
 

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Funny, the area rep will not return my calls either. I wish I knew where he lived! I consulted an attorney he said to push a buy back would be very costly, and could not guarantee a win. The laws are different with off road vehicles. Trust me I have exhausted evrey avenue here.They just won't man up and do the right thing
Then call Kawasaki corporate. Use the form on their site or their 1800 number. You will grasp attention quick. If you want to go the legal route then start sending certified letters.
 

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Damn that sucks. I think your experience is dependent on the dealer. One of the dealers by us is great. The service manager has a good relationship with the Kawasaki rep. They took care of a engine issue on a teryx a couple years out of warranty. It was because of something kawi did wrong on the engine and they took care of it. Sorry to hear your dealer isn’t taking good care of you or going to bat with kawi for you. I would push for a longer warranty on the engine since 1/2 of it croaked you know metal particles flowed around in the engine.


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Funny, the area rep will not return my calls either. I wish I knew where he lived! I consulted an attorney he said to push a buy back would be very costly, and could not guarantee a win. The laws are different with off road vehicles. Trust me I have exhausted evrey avenue here.They just won't man up and do the right thing
That’s bs,reach out to bob this foroum,should have some leverage.go straight to Kawasaki corporate.this is not right.ive seen other tubers gett their entire machines. Replaced.Dont think Kawasaki doesn’t pay attention to this foroum
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
That’s bs,reach out to bob this foroum,should have some leverage.go straight to Kawasaki corporate.this is not right.ive seen other tubers gett their entire machines. Replaced.Dont think Kawasaki doesn’t pay attention to this foroum
To be honest, I do not want another KRX, I am pushing to just get my money back so I can get something that sits in my garage and not thiers.
 

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To be honest, I do not want another KRX, I am pushing to just get my money back so I can get something that sits in my garage and not thiers.
Kawi lost me when they pulled the warranty crap with big pine.. Sold mine a couple days ago. Was going to go with an RMAX but seems their motors are blowing up as well as the transmissions. Yami seems to be getting cheap in build quality imho. I am leaning towards the new can am commander. Didn't care for the pure sport... need something more utility. Shame that Kawi is being snakes about their warranties because I love the old T2.
 

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That’s bs,reach out to bob this foroum,should have some leverage.go straight to Kawasaki corporate.this is not right.ive seen other tubers gett their entire machines. Replaced.Dont think Kawasaki doesn’t pay attention to this foroum
This forum has no official ties to Kawasaki. That said, I'm sure they are aware of this forum, and chances are someone probably keeps an eye on it just to see what people are saying about their product.
Your best advice was to go directly to corporate with the complaint/claim. Airing everything out on a public forum isn't always the best solution. (unhappy customers don't always tell the full story on forums/social media)
 

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I know this is an older post but here's my two cents and experience.
I'm on my second KRX no fault of Kawasaki. Two of my friends also have a KRX. All KRX need to replace the fuel vent rollover valve with an aftermarket one to stop the fuel tank from overpressuring and causing the machine not to start when hot and there is a lot of fuel vapor in the tank. Second, all of our machines have gotten oil in the air box drain line. it's coming from the PCV breather. Once the air cleaner starts to get even the least bit clogged and you are running at full throttle, the engine needs a lot of air and pulls it from anywhere it can. As the air cleaner gets clogged it pulls air and oil vapor from the crankcase. I have disconnected and blocked off the air box port and installed a breather on the engine side of the PCV system. No more oil in the drain tube.
On the cylinder having no compression on the passenger side. It's being starved of fuel. I installed the MFN Performance fuel rail. It's a center feed fuel rail and stops the starvation of fuel in the passenger side of the engine. Hope this information helps someone.
 

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Is that what the dealer told you? That's a little lame and vague. A "Lean" cylinder doesn't "grenade", it will get hot and seize. And before that happens the 02 sensor will pick up the lean condition and the ECM will go into full rich fail safe mode to protect the engine. From your description of what happened, and I have seen this many times, you overrevved your engine when you "opened it up to full throttle", floated the valves and holed the number two piston. The holed piston then pressurized the crankcase, pushing oil up into the breather and intake. There is a lesson here.
 

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Is that what the dealer told you? That's a little lame and vague. A "Lean" cylinder doesn't "grenade", it will get hot and seize. And before that happens the 02 sensor will pick up the lean condition and the ECM will go into full rich fail safe mode to protect the engine. From your description of what happened, and I have seen this many times, you overrevved your engine when you "opened it up to full throttle", floated the valves and holed the number two piston. The holed piston then pressurized the crankcase, pushing oil up into the breather and intake. There is a lesson here.
So if he doesnt have a tune how did he overrev it ??? & 2 if he has a tune how did he overrev it??? Cyl 2 is know to run lean on some units if you are hammering it when low on fuel it will detonate causing piston damage. I have only seen engine damage from overheating melting timing chain guides & lean piston damage oh & when installing a SC got out of time then caused damage only once though.
 

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Rev limiters are good, but not foolproof (no pun intended). If you are at, or near, redline and catch air, the limiter will not kick in fast enough (we're talking milliseconds) to prevent damage. This is especially true if the throttle butterflies are WFO, as there is no vacuum to slow the engine. Additionally, detonation and lean seizure leave completely, and very clear, evidence. Det usually chips around the piston edges or valve pocket cut outs, where lean seizure scores the piston skirt and cylinder walls. Neither will cause the engine to "grenade". And neither will cause the crankcase to pressurize as if a valve "holed" a piston. BTW, I was a privateer road racer, had to maintain my own bike, and learned all of this from guys a lot smarter than I, and a lot lot smarter than ANY dealer tech.
 
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