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I agree. I don't know why everyone always wants to run something else. You can buy the Kawasaki kit online as cheap as anything else, and it's delivered right to your door. No questions about whether or not it's the proper oil, filter or whatever. It's as good as anything else you might want to use.Dunno, I run Kawa oil. Why change its great oil designed for Kawa.
Frank, you're right. It's just gear oil with the API GL-5 rating. I'm sure you'd be fine using the Amzoil. I'm going to use the Kaw engine oil and filter but off the shelf GL-5 for the differentials. This is Tim from Bourbon btw.What Kawasaki Differential oil are you using the Wet Brake and Gear oil or just the 80-90w Gear Oil? The manual says nothing about wet brake oil just the GL-5 Hypoid gear oil?
I'm an Amsoil diehard, Frankie. Will be switching this week, but keeping the kawasaki filter.What Kawasaki Differential oil are you using the Wet Brake and Gear oil or just the 80-90w Gear Oil? The manual says nothing about wet brake oil just the GL-5 Hypoid gear oil?
I could tell a big difference with the 1040 kawi oil vs the mineral that comes from the factory. Engine runs smoother and less stress sounding.I'm an Amsoil diehard, Frankie. Will be switching this week, but keeping the kawasaki filter.
- Amsoil ATV/UTV 10w40 motor oil
- Amsoil ATV/UTV Transmission and Differential fluid (GL-5 rating)
Hey Tim.Frank, you're right. It's just gear oil with the API GL-5 rating. I'm sure you'd be fine using the Amzoil. I'm going to use the Kaw engine oil and filter but off the shelf GL-5 for the differentials. This is Tim from Bourbon btw.
I ran all kawi stuff full syn. I can supply the part numbers if you’d like. It will help dissect what grades you need. I do know the 80w90 for trans and diffs are GL5 with slip additive.So if you don't use kawa oils, and just head to a cycle shop or autozone, what mc oils does one recommend? I figured I'd have the shop do my initial 120mile break in change for provenance, but it ended up being a joke, they made a huge mess etc. I easily could've twisted 3 drain plugs and 3 fill nuts. So what are using for these 3 changes? Not amsoil or anything super boutique. Also, full syn, part or just dino?
TIA.
Factory runs mineral oil for break in. I really disliked it. Super watery not sure how it even provides protection.I wouldn't mind a list of p/n or simply oils. I wonder if the dealer put in full synthetic or dino, the work order didn't specify, so i'm guessing budget dino oil?
I'm sure between the manual, experience and the stores around I can get it figured out, but never hurts to be certain. Appreciated.
Oil that is energy conserving and notGuys, the wet clutch runs in your engine oil, not the transmission, use any oil that meets or exceeds Kawasaki's requirements.
Kawasaki oil is not designed specifically for their machines, that's not how it works... Kawasaki and any other manufacture send out bids to oil suppliers for oils that meet their specifications and more than likely go with the lowest bidder that meets these specifications, Kawasaki does not have engineers making oil specifically for their engines.
with that being said, Kawasaki lubricants will be just fine for these machines and you can be sure you're getting the correct oils, however many other lubricants out there are just as good or better, just make sure you are using the proper specs...
Again any gear oil that is GL5 Hypoid in 80-85\90, I use Liqui Moly 85w90 GL5 Hypoid, View attachment 430 Any good quality motor oil that meets the specifications in the owners manual, I use Shell Rotella T6 15w40 and have in all my Motorsports products for years, it exceeds the manufactures specifications and is the same oil I run in all my equipment and truck.
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