That’s what I’ve done. Works fine.
That’s what I’ve done. Works fine.I have my lights and other accessories and I have removed the dash console cover. Do I just double and triple up the connectors on the bus bar?
You could easily run a hot line from the battery, but I would strongly advise you to install a switch on it. You don’t wanna have a dead battery out in the field.Is there a way to make the bus bar under the dash always hot? I don't like it powering up with the key.
I had this problem. The fuse box behind the drivers seat was the solution I pressed in all the fuses, some were loose and bam fixed that.Any idea why I have 0 power to my bus bar? Or anyone know where to run keyed lower from?
I checked them but I’ll go over them againI had this problem. The fuse box behind the drivers seat was the solution I pressed in all the fuses, some were loose and bam fixed that.
Also FWIW un plug battery and let it sit overnight. Helps reset the system. If still no juice then definitely a burned wire or shortI checked them but I’ll go over them again
run the power from the battery to the switch then from the switch to the bar. Just buy a good switch.My center post has no voltage whatsoever. I was thinking about running a separate power bus bar and attaching the accessory grounds to the chassis. My only problem is I want this to be switched and a direct feed from the battery will be hot all the time.
I want the new bar to be ig option switched, like the factory bar. I guess I'd need a relay for the bar?run the power from the battery to the switch then from the switch to the bar. Just buy a good switch.
I want the new bar to be ig option switched, like the factory bar. I guess I'd need a relay for the bar?
Some folks learn the hard way... 🥴The center post is only constant hot if you have the LE with the Hifonics stereo or if you had a shop install said stereo.
I recently put every single kawasaki oem option on a customers krx. He thought it would be smart to run every single electrical item all at once. He of course blew the ACC fuse so I had to go back in and put some of his electrical options onto the constant hot stud instead of all of them on the keyed power stud.
There are more fancy involved ways of doing it better if you are going to run THAT MUCH powered stuff, but I just split the power load up for this particular customer due to some other reasons.