That’s what I’ve done. Works fine.
Connecting accessories
I have my lights and other accessories and I have removed the dash console cover. Do I just double and triple up the connectors on the bus bar?
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Same, I may be on quad up on it
Is there a way to make the bus bar under the dash always hot? I don't like it powering up with the key.
You could easily run a hot line from the battery, but I would strongly advise you to install a switch on it. You don’t wanna have a dead battery out in the field.Is there a way to make the bus bar under the dash always hot? I don't like it powering up with the key.
There are three studs, one side is ground, the other side is keyed off, and the middle is constant on. I hope I remember that correctly, my krx is currently in the shop waiting for a arms ect.
Any idea why I have 0 power to my bus bar? Or anyone know where to run keyed lower from?
I had this problem. The fuse box behind the drivers seat was the solution I pressed in all the fuses, some were loose and bam fixed that.Any idea why I have 0 power to my bus bar? Or anyone know where to run keyed lower from?
I checked them but I’ll go over them againI had this problem. The fuse box behind the drivers seat was the solution I pressed in all the fuses, some were loose and bam fixed that.
Also FWIW un plug battery and let it sit overnight. Helps reset the system. If still no juice then definitely a burned wire or shortI checked them but I’ll go over them again
Not cheap but definitely a cool way to set up all your accessories SP-9100 Switch Panel Power System
Hook up directly to the battery, they unit then has a hook uo to accessory on power and if we had a reverse we could trigger switches off that too. Offers the ability to custom program each switch, can either be turned on by Key power or on all the time, can set limits and set to turn off all accessories if the battery drops below a certain voltage.
Neat but $$
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Hook up directly to the battery, they unit then has a hook uo to accessory on power and if we had a reverse we could trigger switches off that too. Offers the ability to custom program each switch, can either be turned on by Key power or on all the time, can set limits and set to turn off all accessories if the battery drops below a certain voltage.
Neat but $$
The feed wires to that bar don't seem that heavy to me. Looks like 16 or 18 ga. Are y'all running light bars, pod lights, rock lights, and whips off this single source?
That center post is supposed to be hot? I guess I'll need to check the fuse as well...
That center post is supposed to be hot? I guess I'll need to check the fuse as well...
I don’t know how that center post could always be hot. If I recall there is only one hot and one ground going to the whole bar and the hot is from the key. I took the stock bar off and replaced it with two separate bars. I didn’t like stacking all the connectors on those little posts. I have my ryco kit, light pods, rock lights, winch switch, and a usb plug running to them.
My center post has no voltage whatsoever. I was thinking about running a separate power bus bar and attaching the accessory grounds to the chassis. My only problem is I want this to be switched and a direct feed from the battery will be hot all the time.
run the power from the battery to the switch then from the switch to the bar. Just buy a good switch.My center post has no voltage whatsoever. I was thinking about running a separate power bus bar and attaching the accessory grounds to the chassis. My only problem is I want this to be switched and a direct feed from the battery will be hot all the time.
I want the new bar to be ig option switched, like the factory bar. I guess I'd need a relay for the bar?run the power from the battery to the switch then from the switch to the bar. Just buy a good switch.
I want the new bar to be ig option switched, like the factory bar. I guess I'd need a relay for the bar?
I misunderstood what you were saying. I thought you meant you didn’t want it tied to the ignition. I didn’t trace back to power wire from the bar to see where it’s tied into the ignition but if you were worried about the size of the wire you could just run a new one from the source. I think it’s fine though. How often is every one if your accessories that’s tied into it turned on? I just took the factory one off. It’s just two screws and I bought two of the bars in the above link. I connected the hot from the ignition to one and the ground to the other. Much easier with all the screws. I have a 12” front light bar, two 3” front light pods, two 3” rear facing light pods, my ryco kit, rock lights, my winch switch, and a usb plug all on those bars. I can’t see a scenario where all of those are on at once but I’m sure that circuit is fused even if you did overload it. I did the same setup on my wolverine for four years with no issues.
Yeah, the winch trigger wont draw much current, but I was gonna add a rear back-up light circuit, rock lights, 42" bar, and two pods off the A-pillar. Aside from the back-up lights (basically two rock lights) the rest will be on at the same time for night riding. About the only thing I forsee adding would be an on-board compressor and rear pods for future electrical needs.
Gonna wire in the lights today. Got the bus bar and a bunch of two pin dry connectors for all the lights.
Gonna wire in the lights today. Got the bus bar and a bunch of two pin dry connectors for all the lights.
The center post is only constant hot if you have the LE with the Hifonics stereo or if you had a shop install said stereo.
I recently put every single kawasaki oem option on a customers krx. He thought it would be smart to run every single electrical item all at once. He of course blew the ACC fuse so I had to go back in and put some of his electrical options onto the constant hot stud instead of all of them on the keyed power stud.
There are more fancy involved ways of doing it better if you are going to run THAT MUCH powered stuff, but I just split the power load up for this particular customer due to some other reasons.
I recently put every single kawasaki oem option on a customers krx. He thought it would be smart to run every single electrical item all at once. He of course blew the ACC fuse so I had to go back in and put some of his electrical options onto the constant hot stud instead of all of them on the keyed power stud.
There are more fancy involved ways of doing it better if you are going to run THAT MUCH powered stuff, but I just split the power load up for this particular customer due to some other reasons.
Some folks learn the hard way... 🥴The center post is only constant hot if you have the LE with the Hifonics stereo or if you had a shop install said stereo.
I recently put every single kawasaki oem option on a customers krx. He thought it would be smart to run every single electrical item all at once. He of course blew the ACC fuse so I had to go back in and put some of his electrical options onto the constant hot stud instead of all of them on the keyed power stud.
There are more fancy involved ways of doing it better if you are going to run THAT MUCH powered stuff, but I just split the power load up for this particular customer due to some other reasons.
I added rock lights and a pair of pod lights only to the switched bar. The wires feeding that can't be larger than 16 ga at best, although they appear to be 18ga to me untrained eye.
I ran my 42 light bar off the battery posts, and the led lighting for the light bar switch is on that keyed circuit by itself. This way the switch is only lit when the ignition is on, instead of constantly on.
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