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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I meant to bring this up earlier. On my first ride out a few weeks ago, my check engine light came on and both the L and F for power modes on the dash were showing. I had not hit the low power button at all. I had to shit the engine off and wait about a minute for it to reset itself. I thought it was a fluke. Yesterday it did it again. Anybody else experience this at all or have any ideas?
 

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I meant to bring this up earlier. On my first ride out a few weeks ago, my check engine light came on and both the L and F for power modes on the dash were showing. I had not hit the low power button at all. I had to shit the engine off and wait about a minute for it to reset itself. I thought it was a fluke. Yesterday it did it again. Anybody else experience this at all or have any ideas?

There is a way to check codes with the buttons on the side of the cluster.

“Even when the DFI system is operating normally, the yel- low engine warning indicator light (LED) may go on under strong electrical interference. Additional measures are not required. Turn the ignition switch off to stop the indicator light.
If the yellow engine warning indicator light (LED) of the vehicle brought in for repair still goes on, check the service code.
When the repair has been done, the yellow engine warn- ing indicator light (LED) goes off. But the service codes stored in memory of the ECU are not erased to preserve the problem history. The problem history can be referred using the Kawasaki Diagnostic System when solving un- stable problems.”
 

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Self-diagnosis Procedures
• Turn the ignition switch on.
OWhen a problem occurs with the DFI system and ignition
system, the yellow engine warning indicator light (LED) [A] goes on.
NOTE
OUse a fully charged battery when conducting self-diagnosis. Otherwise, the light (LED) does not go on.
• Push the lower button [A] to display the odometer.

• Push the upper button [A] for more than two seconds.
• The service code is displayed on the LCD by the num-
ber of two digits.
• Any of the following procedures ends self-diagnosis. OWhen the service code is displayed on the LCD, push the
upper button for more than two seconds. OWhen the ignition switch is turned off.
 

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It can do that with the 4wd drive switch. Not sure exactly what sequence I did when I first got mine but I think i flipped the 4wd switch with the ignition on and not running, turned it off and flipped it back to 2wd. It went into limp mode when I crunk it back up. Think I figured out I had to turn it off, turn ignition back on and put it back in 4wd, crank it, move and go back to 2wd with it running. Guess the 4wd actuator didn't fully engage and stuck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
It can do that with the 4wd drive switch. Not sure exactly what sequence I did when I first got mine but I think i flipped the 4wd switch with the ignition on and not running, turned it off and flipped it back to 2wd. It went into limp mode when I crunk it back up. Think I figured out I had to turn it off, turn ignition back on and put it back in 4wd, crank it, move and go back to 2wd with it running. Guess the 4wd actuator didn't fully engage and stuck.
It can do that with the 4wd drive switch. Not sure exactly what sequence I did when I first got mine but I think i flipped the 4wd switch with the ignition on and not running, turned it off and flipped it back to 2wd. It went into limp mode when I crunk it back up. Think I figured out I had to turn it off, turn ignition back on and put it back in 4wd, crank it, move and go back to 2wd with it running. Guess the 4wd actuator didn't fully engage and stuck.
The funny thing is, it operated totally normally. It just seemed to not know in the computer if it was in full power or low power mode.
 

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The funny thing is, it operated totally normally. It just seemed to not know in the computer if it was in full power or low power mode.
I had the check engine light and the L - H lit up, might have been flashing also from the 4wd switch. Been about 8 months ago so don't remember the exacts.
 

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I meant to bring this up earlier. On my first ride out a few weeks ago, my check engine light came on and both the L and F for power modes on the dash were showing. I had not hit the low power button at all. I had to shit the engine off and wait about a minute for it to reset itself. I thought it was a fluke. Yesterday it did it again. Anybody else experience this at all or have any ideas?
I have experienced it thank God warranty covered it

My actuator went bad so basically that’s used to turn on for a drive and all them other things like differential lock it’s the actuator

Happened to me at about six months so warranty covered, they also said It seemed common like they’ve had multiple multiple issues with it
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Oh boy. How long did they have the machine and how often was it doing it?
 

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At the time of course this has been about 4 to 5 months ago like everyone else they are backed up it’s sat maybe 3 weeks

Issue has been getting the actual parts from Kawasaki

It was a very Bizzarre deal when I had both check engine light and everything flash but nothing would reset so it had completely gone out

At about that time I also was grinding down my whole knuckles On my a arms and actually cut through the PV boot..
This was a major fun day here
Kawasaki said it would be a month or so I’m getting a replacement ask which would be $700 for anywhere from one month to two months PV boot

I ended up going to O’Reillys and getting a large truck universal boot and cut it down to fit, I am buying an air compressed Pv boot tool that cost $200 to expand the boot over the outer axle to accomplish this. A friend of mine works for auto mechanic he has the machine for the clamping this was a hell of an ordeal
 

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I have experienced it thank God warranty covered it

My actuator went bad so basically that’s used to turn on for a drive and all them other things like differential lock it’s the actuator

Happened to me at about six months so warranty covered, they also said It seemed common like they’ve had multiple multiple issues with it

When I switch to diff lock, sometimes it engages, but most of the time it takes a few tries to lock in. Is that what yours was doing? I know that any spinning of tires won’t let it engage. I try to anticipate when I’ll need the diff lock, and get it engaged before the rock crawling. But even just to switch to 4 wheel drive, it engages slow usually. I should take the dash out again and get in there and put dielectric grease on all the connections. I have to route the cable for the pv3 to come up through the dash anyway, to mount the screen in a tidy location. These have so many sensors on them, it’s a wonder I havent had more electrical issues. Between dust, mud and water. Whoever posted up the KRX service manual, I’m greatful. That manual finally let me learn what the screw in plugs on the engine were for too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I was in 2wd high and just saw the dash light come on. I hadn’t been in 4wd in at least 30 minutes when it happened. I haven’t tried diff lock yet.
 

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When I switch to diff lock, sometimes it engages, but most of the time it takes a few tries to lock in. Is that what yours was doing? I know that any spinning of tires won’t let it engage. I try to anticipate when I’ll need the diff lock, and get it engaged before the rock crawling. But even just to switch to 4 wheel drive, it engages slow usually. I should take the dash out again and get in there and put dielectric grease on all the connections. I have to route the cable for the pv3 to come up through the dash anyway, to mount the screen in a tidy location. These have so many sensors on them, it’s a wonder I havent had more electrical issues. Between dust, mud and water. Whoever posted up the KRX service manual, I’m greatful. That manual finally let me learn what the screw in plugs on the engine were for too.
When I switch to diff lock, sometimes it engages, but most of the time it takes a few tries to lock in. Is that what yours was doing? I know that any spinning of tires won’t let it engage. I try to anticipate when I’ll need the diff lock, and get it engaged before the rock crawling. But even just to switch to 4 wheel drive, it engages slow usually. I should take the dash out again and get in there and put dielectric grease on all the connections. I have to route the cable for the pv3 to come up through the dash anyway, to mount the screen in a tidy location. These have so many sensors on them, it’s a wonder I havent had more electrical issues. Between dust, mud and water. Whoever posted up the KRX service manual, I’m greatful. That manual finally let me learn what the screw in plugs on the engine were for too.
When I switch to diff lock, sometimes it engages, but most of the time it takes a few tries to lock in. Is that what yours was doing? I know that any spinning of tires won’t let it engage. I try to anticipate when I’ll need the diff lock, and get it engaged before the rock crawling. But even just to switch to 4 wheel drive, it engages slow usually. I should take the dash out again and get in there and put dielectric grease on all the connections. I have to route the cable for the pv3 to come up through the dash anyway, to mount the screen in a tidy location. These have so many sensors on them, it’s a wonder I havent had more electrical issues. Between dust, mud and water. Whoever posted up the KRX service manual, I’m greatful. That manual finally let me learn what the screw in plugs on the engine were for too.
I was on the Hatfield and McCoy trail system
Had used all gears and had used differential lock previous
Had come to a rest stop was turning the engine back on and that’s when I was getting the check engine light
Both things were flashing and that’s when I noticed for a drive would not engage in differential lock along with the low power button

That’s when I decided to take it for service

Also check this out for your PV3 mount
 

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I was on the Hatfield and McCoy trail system
Had used all gears and had used differential lock previous
Had come to a rest stop was turning the engine back on and that’s when I was getting the check engine light
Both things were flashing and that’s when I noticed for a drive would not engage in differential lock along with the low power button

That’s when I decided to take it for service

Also check this out for your PV3 mount

We’re you going downhill at the time that happened?

I’ll look at that mount. I’d like something that looks nice instead of just Velcro. So I’ll likely have to get that now. Always something.
 

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We’re you going downhill at the time that happened?

I’ll look at that mount. I’d like something that looks nice instead of just Velcro. So I’ll likely have to get that now. Always something.
Yes after a black diamond downhill trail. Was working.
Came to a stop turned off engine
On restart. Got check engine etc.
 

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I meant to bring this up earlier. On my first ride out a few weeks ago, my check engine light came on and both the L and F for power modes on the dash were showing. I had not hit the low power button at all. I had to shit the engine off and wait about a minute for it to reset itself. I thought it was a fluke. Yesterday it did it again. Anybody else experience this at all or have any ideas?
I had this happen and It was loose Barrett connections
 
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