BFG KM3 32 inch - bead lock bolts
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Can't say for certain, but I bet the bead is the exact same on both tire sizes. However, I don't know that you need a complete replacement set of bolts. I would bet that if you had 6-8 longer bolts, that would be enough to get the lock ring on and compress the bead enough to use the OEM bolts. Replace the long bolts with the OEM's when you get the other OEM bolts started and torqued to the first torque value. The bead compresses way more than you would think it would when you start torqueing the bolts.
The bolts on my Tusk wheels were long enough to mount my 32" KM3's with no problem.
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The bolts on my Tusk wheels were long enough to mount my 32" KM3's with no problem.
They work...but are tough to get started as bead lip is thick. Torque in 2 stages 15 ft/# then to 42. Use anti seize and be patient starting the bolts. Tire compound is soft and you will see the bead squish after 1st pass. DON"T CROSS THREAD. Just did aset of 5 last week on stock rims.
Thanks I ordered some of the longer bolts and will use them to get started and then use my factory bolts . Thanks for the info
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I think different wheels line up different. On mine some of the tap holes were shallow and others were deeper. Must have been a Tuesday after a holiday or a 4pm Friday deal. When you really start to pull these things apart it can piss you off on some of the crap that is “good enough ship it” mentality. The tire rack it pure junk. But if they spent 10 more dollars on the design it would be perfect. The wheels are the same great idea but they are not as tuff as they look. Low psi on after market wheels don’t bend the rims quite as easy but these ones bring a hammer on the trail jic.
Watch out when having tires mounted on beadlocks at a shop other then the kawi dealer as they are not insured to do beadlocks and they dont warranty their work because its an off road only thing in most states. I had a shop do mine in cali and they completely screwed up and i lost a ring because the bolts blew out. My tire wheel combo needed a lock ring spacer and it wasnt used so to much pressure was applied laterally to the bolts and the heads sheared off leaving me with a new $100 lock ring to buy, 16 drills bits, 2 bolt extractor kits, and a couple of 12hour days of rage maintenance. I wont name national chain off road shop but i will never go there again.
I don't even know what a lock ring spacer is... lol
I never heard of them either. But they do exist.
Beadlock Spacer Kit
Beadlock spacers are needed when an excessively thick tire bead is causing assembly issues such as bolt heads shearing off at low torque values. - 14" UTV beadlock spacers increase bead allowance by 1/8" (0.125") - 15" & 17" beadlock spacers increase bead allowance by 3/16" (0.1875") - UTV...
www.methodracewheels.com
They look like to be wheel specific. Not sure if there is any for the stock wheels.
Some wheels have a deep bead channel to accommodate the larger beads but wheels like Method need spacers when you start going to bigger tires. If you have to use more than light pressure to start a lock ring bolt then you need a spacer. If the lock ring doesn't make unstressed contact with the wheel then ya need a spacer. It is the height of the bead lock channel and the friction from the lock ring that keeps the tire from coming off the wheel. Milestar Pategonias come with the thickest bead I have seen on an M/T LT and they don't fit most bead locks. Spacers are like wheel bolt patterns just have to find the right ones to fit or you can find blanks to drill out. I just found some. I won't even consider a wheel if they don't make spacers for them or if I cant find a company that makes them for that wheel. Anyone know our stock wheel manufacturer???
The spacer is a thinner version of the lockring. It is meant to make the bead channel on you bead locks a little wider so uour bolts and lock ring are not stressed out. As we go bigger in tires there are going to be more manufacturers that have some thick tire beads that will not fit into, say Method beadlocks with out a lot of pressure. You should be able to start a lockring bolt without pushing on the lockring much if at all. Most people will say use longer bolts, WRONG! Use an 8mm to 15mm lockring spacer and then use bolts that are 8mm to 15mm longer then original bolts. Its all fun in games until you start popping bolt heads off and then your lock ring comes flying off along with your tire going around a corner at 35mph. This is a new issue to the SXS community but an old one for us rock crawlers, jeepers, and prerunners. The added speed, weight, and tire size of our rides is going to start to show issues that some UTV users have never seen before.
LOL I'm right there with you. I don't doubt that this is a real "thing", but I'm not understanding the concept at all. Fortunately I had zero issues mounting my KM3's on my Tusk beadlocks. No problems with the bolts being too short and, there are four more bolts on the Tusk wheels than on the OEM wheels. 20 beadlock bolts on the Tusk vs 16 on the OEM. More is better when it comes to beadlocks.
I dont know why i didnt just lead with that video...lol. I doubt most of us will ever need them unless LT are used or Method wheels with 35inch tires. Method wheels tend to have a narrow channel in my experience using them on my Jeep/fj80/Sequoia.
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