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2021 Blue KRX 1000
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300 Posts
Went on a long ride today with the new tender springs and the crossover rubber rings. All I can say is WOW! This is like an entirely new machine. It rides better than new and not one single noise. Yesterday before the ride the front was right at 14.5 inches with 3 inches down. The rear was 15.5 with 8 inches down to lock ring. I'll measure it tomorrow where I'm at. These tender springs are worth every penny. And so get the rubber rings off eBay!
 

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2020 Kawasaki KRX
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1,070 Posts
What I have done is, first jack up the front, to take the load off, remove the hood, then tap the top retaining ring loose. That will allow you to grab the springs and turn up or down to set preload. Spray some WD40 on the threads and it turns real easy.
That is how I did it adding preload to the stock springs. The problem is if you pay attention to how your springs are clocked, doing it this way can really throw them off. I didn't think you could get to the lock rings with the longer springs on there. I will probably just take my front shocks off again to make any final adjustments.
 

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46 Posts
I just installed the rears, and 1st impression around my neighborhood is great. The speed jumps ... Ah..bumps..... Are really smooth. I'm at 16" at rear skid.
 

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236 Posts
I got my tenders and the silencer rings sitting here for a week. Gonna try to install sometime this week. Any tricks or things to look out for? And I’m on the stock tires, so 4” from top in front, and 8” in the rear should be good? I’ve got the tusk skid plate. I’ll be happy to be about 14” all around. I don’t want my cv joints making growling noises to gain an inch or two more height.
 

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2021 Blue KRX 1000
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300 Posts
I started with 3" in the front and 8" in the rear. After a good ride I need to go another 1/2" more in the front. Front will be 2 to 1 and the rear is 1 to 1. So 1/2" in the front of mine will give me another inch which is what I need for 15" from the skid plate. I have the trail armor plates.
 

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774 Posts
All thingz does their own powder coating, so they can make them any color you want...........a friend of mine is getting his in blue as a custom color.
 

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46 Posts
For the rears, I installed the spring compressors before I jacked it up, just finger tight. Then I jacked it up and this way the springs were already loose when the rear was supported. I removed the tire and lower bolt, tightened the spring compressors a few turns and removed the springs without ever removing the top bolt.
Reverse for the install.
Total time for the rears.....70 min. And at least 10 of that was going back and forth to the toolbox...
 

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236 Posts
For the rears, I installed the spring compressors before I jacked it up, just finger tight. Then I jacked it up and this way the springs were already loose when the rear was supported. I removed the tire and lower bolt, tightened the spring compressors a few turns and removed the springs without ever removing the top bolt.
Reverse for the install.
Total time for the rears.....70 min. And at least 10 of that was going back and forth to the toolbox...
Good to know. I’ll be trying that then. I’ve never done this stuff before. So I’ll do the rears first, and then the fronts. If a guy wanted to adjust these after the initial set, could he compress the springs a little on the machine and then thread up or down? Instead of taking the fronts off again?
 
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