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Has anybody out there had any long term experience with this clutch kit? I would like to know how well they are holding up.
I have had the AA weights in my KRX since new, I am currently at 1400 miles and have taken the clutch apart and cleaned it every few hundred miles, so far there is zero wear on the sheaves or rollers and the weights look good but are starting to show a slight bit of wear at the tips, no wear on the pins and only slight wear to the sides of the weight pockets, I am running the KRX factory belt and spring, the AA weights do not have a bushing like the factory weights or the current RCOR weighs which I think I prefer a bushingless weight as long as you keep them clean, (the upcoming new RCOR weights will also be bushingless)
I have experimented with several weight settings as well, you can see in the last pictures the AA weights have the exact same profile as the factory weights but weight can be distributed making them perform better or worse than the factory weights.
I set out to get some long term data on these clutches \ weights ( a minimum of 1000 miles before posting any results) I am not giving my endorsement just posting the facts so far, I will soon be running the new improved RCOR weight kit as well as the new KRX revised clutch and weights but the only way to get any real data is to run them long term so it will be a while before I have any data on them, here are some pictures of the clutch with the AA weights I took last week, they are certainly outlasting the factory weights I had in my previous KRX but I take apart and clean the clutch often and I also use dry lubricant on the weight contact points.










 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I have had the AA weights in my KRX since new, I am currently at 1400 miles and have taken the clutch apart and cleaned it every few hundred miles, so far there is zero wear on the sheaves or rollers and the weights look good but are starting to show a slight bit of wear at the tips, no wear on the pins and only slight wear to the sides of the weight pockets, I am running the KRX factory belt and spring, the AA weights do not have a bushing like the factory weights or the current RCOR weighs which I think I prefer a bushingless weight as long as you keep them clean, (the upcoming new RCOR weights will also be bushingless)
I have experimented with several weight settings as well, you can see in the last pictures the AA weights have the exact same profile as the factory weights but weight can be distributed making them perform better or worse than the factory weights.
I set out to get some long term data on these clutches \ weights ( a minimum of 1000 miles before posting any results) I am not giving my endorsement just posting the facts so far, I will soon be running the new improved RCOR weight kit as well as the new KRX revised clutch and weights but the only way to get any real data is to run them long term so it will be a while before I have any data on them, here are some pictures of the clutch with the AA weights I took last week, they are certainly outlasting the factory weights I had in my previous KRX but I take apart and clean the clutch often and I also use dry lubricant on the weight contact points.


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Would you suggest going with the AA weights from new and a belt change or should the stock belt be ok with the AA weights? I plan on buying a KRX by the first of the year. If the stock weights are going to cause damage to my clutch, id rather change them as soon as I get it home as opposed to waiting for damage to occur.
 

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I am not recommending anyones weights as of now as I have not tested the others yet, I posted my findings with the AA weights and the stock belt, I will soon be testing the new RCOR weights so check back with me in a year and I'll let you know how they do :)
These guys that say so and so weight is the best probably haven't ran and thoroughly tested other setups, I am determined to find out which works the best but it's going to take a lot of miles to get any accurate info, everyone says the stock belt is too hard and wears out the sheaves but I am not finding that with my testing, I now have 1400 miles on the factory belt with ZERO wear on the sheaves and yes I do all kinds of riding from slow trails and rock crawling to high speed running on the blacktop at 60 mph for 20 or more miles.
I also have a new KRX clutch coming as it has been redesigned slightly, looks like better rollers and the weights have been changed so we'll eventually see how that works.
If we were talking about the old Kawasaki weights then I would say YES get them out of there ASAP before the coating flakes off and gets in the rollers but with the new 23 clutch I have no idea, I did see on the Facebook forums a brand new 23 had a weight break off at 200 miles,(see pic) hopefully this is a rare occurrence and a defective weight, if we start seeing more of this then I would suggest getting rid of those new Kawasaki weights as well but time will tell if this is just one defective weight or a common problem.


 

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I am not recommending anyones weights as of now as I have not tested the others yet, I posted my findings with the AA weights and the stock belt, I will soon be testing the new RCOR weights so check back with me in a year and I'll let you know how they do :)
These guys that say so and so weight is the best probably haven't ran and thoroughly tested other setups, I am determined to find out which works the best but it's going to take a lot of miles to get any accurate info, everyone says the stock belt is too hard and wears out the sheaves but I am not finding that with my testing, I now have 1400 miles on the factory belt with ZERO wear on the sheaves and yes I do all kinds of riding from slow trails and rock crawling to high speed running on the blacktop at 60 mph for 20 or more miles.
I also have a new KRX clutch coming as it has been redesigned slightly, looks like better rollers and the weights have been changed so we'll eventually see how that works.
If we were talking about the old Kawasaki weights then I would say YES get them out of there ASAP before the coating flakes off and gets in the rollers but with the new 23 clutch I have no idea, I did see on the Facebook forums a brand new 23 had a weight break off at 200 miles,(see pic) hopefully this is a rare occurrence and a defective weight, if we start seeing more of this then I would suggest getting rid of those new Kawasaki weights as well but time will tell if this is just one defective weight or a common problem.

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If you didnt sleep you could ride 24 - 7 & get the tests over sooner :D
 

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"everyone says the stock belt is too hard and wears out the sheaves but I am not finding that with my testing "

I agree with this Steve just said about the factory belt not being too hard and causing grooves in the sheaves. Any one that knows me here will remember my previous posts where I went 1400 miles on factory clutching including belt with 35's and had no premature wear.
 

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"everyone says the stock belt is too hard and wears out the sheaves but I am not finding that with my testing "

I agree with this Steve just said about the factory belt not being too hard and causing grooves in the sheaves. Any one that knows me here will remember my previous posts where I went 1400 miles on factory clutching including belt with 35's and had no premature wear.
Wear on these clutches is all over the place and I really think it depends on how you ride, if you ride a lot above 40 mph the clutch is at full shift and this will wear the tips of the weights which will inturn cause the sheaves to start grooving, as I stated above my riding style is all over the place including a lot of riding at full shift, on my previous KRX with a completely stock clutch at 1400 miles my factory weights were badly worn and the primary sheaves were grooved, on this new KRX ES I am now over 1400 miles and the sheaves are in perfect shape and just a very little bit of tip wear on the AA weights (still factory belt and spring) it won't be long until these weights will start wearing more and will need replaced or they will start wearing the sheaves.
Tomorrow I will have a new 2023 clutch assembly and I plan to start testing other weights on a fresh primary... we'll see how those perform over the next 1500 miles.. :)
With the design of this clutch I don't think there is any "magic setup" that is going to make the weights last forever and I think they are going to be a normal wear item every 1500 miles or so.
 

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Agreed, riding style is a major factor. Steve, I'm sure I speak for everyone when I say THANK YOU for your testing and contributions to our community. You're one of those guys that when you post, I listen.
 

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I tried the AA weights. They acted funny in my machine. It would rev kinda high taking off and once you got to about 10 or 15 mph the rpm would drop like 2,000 rpm. Seemed like the weights didnt move until they got to that speed and shifted a lot all at once.
 

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I tried the AA weights. They acted funny in my machine. It would rev kinda high taking off and once you got to about 10 or 15 mph the rpm would drop like 2,000 rpm. Seemed like the weights didnt move until they got to that speed and shifted a lot all at once.
I have experienced that same thing with those weights but have been able to eliminate that by playing with different magnet (weights) on the arms
 
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