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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
New member here. I picked up a '21 KRX 1000 in mean green last week. I'm making it street legal for the occasions I need it to be so.

My state requires a lighted license plate, no closer than 12 inches to the ground (measured to the bottom). To meet this requirement, I purchased the optional LED license plate bracket that can come with the XTC turn signal kit. I decided to go with the XTC kit, although it's expensive, because of the extensive use of the OEM wiring harnesses and the cool-guy self-cancelling turn signals. Editorial note: I love this kit. The install went swimmingly. It's no fun to take apart the console and cupholder, but once that is done, it went together pretty easily. Great kit, and I highly recommend it.

Now, to the license plate holder. It bothers me that there doesn't appear to be a good solution to this problem out there (maybe there is and I missed it). Because I was buying the XTC kit, I went for the optional LED bracket they sell. This kit, though adequate, leaves a lot to be desired. It's a plate holder with two wires coming out the back and that's about it. Installation instructions? "Tap into some 12v wires that are hot when the lights are on and attach them to the wires we give you. Good luck buddy!" At least, that's my take on it. It would be nice if they would engineer a license plate holder solution that matches the rest of the kit. <rant over>

I decided to tap the black and brown wires from the XTC wiring harness that plugs into the driver's side rear stop light. YMMV, but the black was ground and the brown was +12v when the lights are on. Once that was decided, I had to snake the wires down to the license plate holder, which I decided to mount near the bottom of the metal just behind the lower part of the engine. Here's a photo of where I decided to put the holes in the frame:

3584


When mounted here, the bottom of the plate is about 14 1/2 inches above ground, adequate for my state.

I removed the heat-shrink tubing on the XTC wiring harness at the driver's side light plug, and then used this approach to splice in my wires. I used 18 gauge wire because that's what they had at the auto parts store. A smaller gauge would have sufficed.

3585




3587


3588


3589


I plugged it in and tested it (blue tinge from the LEDs)

3590


Time to finish this install.

I bought some braided wire loom to protect the wires. The auto parts store only had 3/4 inch loom, which is bigger than required, but that's all they had, so it sufficed. If available, I would have bought the 3/8 inch loom instead.

It bothered me that the LED license plate bracket had two flimsy wires out the back for the LED, so I covered those wires with shrink tubing to protect them a little better:

3591


I snaked the red and black wires, with the loom, down the frame and into the area above the license plate holder.

3595





Then I attached the wires and put shrink tubing around them:


3596


Several zip ties later, and the install was complete:

3598


The blue tinge is from the LEDs; not bright in the photo, but plenty bright in real life.

I didn't use solder on the wires because I'm lazy. I'm relying on a solid mechanical connection, good electrical tape, and shrink tubing. If you are a worrier, go for the solder :)

I hope to be a contributing member to this forum. I thought I'd share my experience with this install and how I chose to solve the problem. I'm learning and trying to get better, and appreciate any and all feedback.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Lest you think I did this without a real machine (OEM front and back bumpers; System 3 beadlocks with System 3 XTC 350 (32-inch), OEM roof, USA windshield, tailbox kit, XTC turn signal kit, and OEM spare tire holder.

3599
 

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Looks good, I have the XTC kit also, for the license plate bracket I used the factory 12V wires behind the driver side tail light, as I don't plan on having a lighted whip.

They are found here in this video at 5:26 in the video.

 

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2020 Green KRX
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Why not just use the factory hot point in the rear left wheel well? It’s hot when the ignition is on. I made my own license plate bracket with LED. Everything is bolted in. 700+ miles and no issues. Shrink tubed all connections and conduit over the wires for the factory look.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks to those of you who asked why I didn't use the factory 12v wires in the left rear wheel well. The reason I didn't use that is very simple:

I didn't know about them!

I should have used those. I'm new to the KRX 1000 and just learning. I had a RZR and sold it to get into the KRX. Nice to know! Next time, I'll use that :)
 

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I took the easier route - 10 minutes.... ordered a pair of roll bar clamps mounted my LED plate to those - mounted and snugged up. Ran a pair of 18ga wire from the plate to the bus bar using a 10 length of wire boom (also did my turn signals the same). key on, plate lights.. signals work, was more work getting the center covers off...
 

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New member here. I picked up a '21 KRX 1000 in mean green last week. I'm making it street legal for the occasions I need it to be so.

My state requires a lighted license plate, no closer than 12 inches to the ground (measured to the bottom). To meet this requirement, I purchased the optional LED license plate bracket that can come with the XTC turn signal kit. I decided to go with the XTC kit, although it's expensive, because of the extensive use of the OEM wiring harnesses and the cool-guy self-cancelling turn signals. Editorial note: I love this kit. The install went swimmingly. It's no fun to take apart the console and cupholder, but once that is done, it went together pretty easily. Great kit, and I highly recommend it.

Now, to the license plate holder. It bothers me that there doesn't appear to be a good solution to this problem out there (maybe there is and I missed it). Because I was buying the XTC kit, I went for the optional LED bracket they sell. This kit, though adequate, leaves a lot to be desired. It's a plate holder with two wires coming out the back and that's about it. Installation instructions? "Tap into some 12v wires that are hot when the lights are on and attach them to the wires we give you. Good luck buddy!" At least, that's my take on it. It would be nice if they would engineer a license plate holder solution that matches the rest of the kit. <rant over>

I decided to tap the black and brown wires from the XTC wiring harness that plugs into the driver's side rear stop light. YMMV, but the black was ground and the brown was +12v when the lights are on. Once that was decided, I had to snake the wires down to the license plate holder, which I decided to mount near the bottom of the metal just behind the lower part of the engine. Here's a photo of where I decided to put the holes in the frame:

View attachment 3584

When mounted here, the bottom of the plate is about 14 1/2 inches above ground, adequate for my state.

I removed the heat-shrink tubing on the XTC wiring harness at the driver's side light plug, and then used this approach to splice in my wires. I used 18 gauge wire because that's what they had at the auto parts store. A smaller gauge would have sufficed.

View attachment 3585



View attachment 3587

View attachment 3588

View attachment 3589

I plugged it in and tested it (blue tinge from the LEDs)

View attachment 3590

Time to finish this install.

I bought some braided wire loom to protect the wires. The auto parts store only had 3/4 inch loom, which is bigger than required, but that's all they had, so it sufficed. If available, I would have bought the 3/8 inch loom instead.

It bothered me that the LED license plate bracket had two flimsy wires out the back for the LED, so I covered those wires with shrink tubing to protect them a little better:
You didn't have to cut your wires like you did ....on the driver side up underneath there are 2 light green looking wires plugs all you had to do was plug your wires to your Licence plate to them that is what they are there for and were you put your plate at is not a good place you should have Raised it up higher than you did ......why i am saying this is because were you put it at .....is a bad place because if you ever wanted to put a Hitch on it that is were it goses.........I got my Flash display up were the plastic is it will hold it with know problems.....but cutting them wires like you did and just tie them together like you did .......WOW!!! You are going to have big problems down the road .....frist i would have put them wires were i said.... but you have already done it so get you some heat Shrink and take the wires a part and put the heat shrink over the wires and put to Connectors on them wires then slide the heat shrink over them and take a lighter and And melt shrink wrap and that will keep mudd or water or anything else out of it and you will never have any problems down the road.....just trying to help you out ......

View attachment 3591

I snaked the red and black wires, with the loom, down the frame and into the area above the license plate holder.

View attachment 3595




Then I attached the wires and put shrink tubing around them:


View attachment 3596

Several zip ties later, and the install was complete:

View attachment 3598

The blue tinge is from the LEDs; not bright in the photo, but plenty bright in real life.

I didn't use solder on the wires because I'm lazy. I'm relying on a solid mechanical connection, good electrical tape, and shrink tubing. If you are a worrier, go for the solder :)

I hope to be a contributing member to this forum. I thought I'd share my experience with this install and how I chose to solve the problem. I'm learning and trying to get better, and appreciate any and all feedback.
Mirrors on the way and installed tomorrow, then street-legal will be complete.
 

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@drmdwebb When you get a free moment, can you recheck the model. The link you sent me was for a Aluma 6310 which is 63 inches wide and 10 inches long. The KRX 1000 is 68.1 inches wide by 130.1 inch long. I spoke with my local Aluma dealer and he said that the Model number is right on the tongue. Thanks in advance!
 
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